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The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Your Livestock Guardian Dogs and Farm Animals Cool this Summer

7/12/2023

As a Maremma Sheepdog breeder and admin of the Maremma Sheepdog Open Forum, a large Maremma Sheepdog Facebook group, one question I often hear is, "How do Maremmas handle the heat?" Summertime can be challenging for Livestock Guardian Dogs as they seek relief from the sweltering heat.

The heat is equally brutal on the livestock these brave dogs guard, whether that means goats, sheep, cattle, horses, poultry, or other species. As responsible owners and caretakers, it's essential to prioritize their well-being and implement effective cooling strategies. This comprehensive guide will provide expert tips and techniques to keep your Livestock Guardian Dogs and the animals they guard cool and comfortable throughout the summer months.

I own a small farm in Lemoore, California. I breed MSCA-registered Maremma Sheepdogs and registered Mini Nubian and Nigerian Dwarf dairy goats. I also own a variety of other animals, including horses, mini horses, donkeys, chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, and barn cats. In the Central Valley, temperatures regularly reach around 110-115 degrees in the summer. We have "excessive heat watch" warnings regularly from June to September. People always say it's "a dry heat," but no matter how you look at it, that's hot! 🥵

However, my Maremmas do very well in the heat. In fact, they do better than the goats and other livestock they guard. That could be because dogs are more resourceful than goats or poultry. Or maybe dogs are just hardier. But I haven't had any real problems with the dogs or horses and few problems with the goats. Though sadly, I have lost a few birds to the heat. 😢

High temperatures can put animals at risk of heat stress, dehydration, and even death. So, I ensure that my Maremmas, goats, and other animals are kept as cool and comfortable as possible throughout the summer. Below are some strategies and tips that you can use to help your Livestock Guardian Dogs, and other animals beat the heat, too. And most of them are very inexpensive and easy to implement.

Provide Adequate Shade

One of the simplest ways to keep your Livestock Guardian Dogs and livestock cool is to provide adequate shade. Trees, barns, or other shade structures can all offer protection from the sun. Here at Prancing Pony Farm, we have almost no trees left because of the drought conditions we have suffered in Central California for over a decade. Our property had dozens of trees when we first bought it, but most died due to the drought and either fell or had to be removed. We've planted new trees that are young and don't yet provide much shade. Instead, we primarily use a variety of man-made structures to provide much-needed shade for our animals.

Barns and Other Outbuildings

Our best source of shade is our main barn, which is roughly 90' long by 25 feet wide. It's just a tall, flat roof with sides of welded steel pipe and horse panels, so it has plenty of ventilation, which is super important for preventing heat stroke. We hang shade sails to block the incoming sun in the summer.

We also have a one-sided hay barn that's usually empty of hay in the summer. (We stack our hay outside in the summer since it doesn't rain anyway.) We use that as extra shade for the animals.

We have a 16 x 8' mobile office trailer in our barnyard that we converted into a dog grooming room and backup milking parlor. It's several feet off the ground, so the dogs and goats love to lay under this to cool off, and the shadow it casts provides a lot of shade later in the day.

Our Puppy Parlor (puppy whelping room and milking parlor) was made from a 16 x 30' garden shed built on a concrete pad. It is completely enclosed, insulated, heated, and air-conditioned, with two industrial fans hanging from the ceiling. Dog doors going out to the goat pastures are on two sides, so the pups and mama dogs can come and go as they please. We don't run the AC that much, but the fans make a big difference in keeping the building cool. The dogs enjoy lying on the cool concrete floor under the fans during the hottest part of the day.

Other Shade Structures

Our property came with several horse shelters sprinkled throughout the pastures. These are tall metal structures with flat roofs and no sides. They work well and stand up to the wind, rain, heat, and animals pushing on them. A dead tree fell on one of them a few years ago, crushing the roof, but the structure is still intact enough to provide shade for our Maremmas, horses, and goats. We plan to get it repaired one of these days. But we have higher priorities right now, and an ugly shelter still works to keep the animals cool.

One thing we tried a few times for shade that didn't work well was pop-up canopies that are popular for parties, sporting events, and camping. They are convenient and look nice, but they don't hold up well to wind, rain, goats, dogs, and horses pushing on them. We gave up on that idea after buying a few that quickly ended up in the trash.

We use calf hutches from Calftel and Polydome in our pastures, but they are primarily for providing shelter in the wintertime. They are too hot to lay inside during the heat of the day, but sometimes the goats, Maremmas, or birds will lay in the shadows cast by the sun.

Easy Homemade Shade Structures

Next, we made shade structures out of t-posts and shade sails. We buy the shade sails from Amazon or Costco and the t-posts from Lowes or Tractor Supply. We learned early on that these structures must be extra tall, or the goats will tear them up. The goats stand up on their hind legs to pull the sails down so they can use them like hammocks. The silly goats love laying in them, so the posts soon get bent, the sails sag, and eventually, the sails get torn to shreds.

It works best if the posts are at least 8' tall, with 10' being better. You measure out a rectangle slightly bigger than the dimensions of the sail, pound the posts in and attach the four corners of the sails to the top of the posts. And voila, you have a shade structure!

Where we live, we get no rain for most of the year, so the ground is like concrete, and it's hard to pound posts into the ground. Because of this, we mostly do our fence work in the wintertime. Otherwise, we must water the ground for several days to soften it. I may buy a gas-powered fence post-pounder someday to make this job easier.

These shade structures aren't pretty, but they work reasonably well. It's hard to get them super tight and straight and even harder to keep them that way. Over time they start to sag, and the goats tear them up, leaving nothing but a bunch of bent t-posts sticking out of the ground.

After putting all that work and money into building those structures, we've determined there are better choices than this. But they are a quick way to provide your Livestock Guardian Dogs and livestock shade on a budget. They are suitable temporary structures that will last a year or two if you build them right. Or a day or two if you don't make them high and tight!

Another quick and inexpensive trick we've found is to attach sections of shade cloth to existing fences. Our fences are 5' high, so we buy 4 or 5' wide panels in whatever length we need in a particular area. These are made for lining patios and backyard fences and have rivets along all four sides, which makes attaching them to the fence with zip ties a breeze. This method only works for part of the day, but if you install it in the right spot, the animals can lay in the shadow cast by the sun. We use this as a backup for additional shade in a pasture, not as the only shade source.

Our Favorite Solution for Fast and easy (But More Costly) Shade

We've found that dog kennels with canvas roofs and sides provide the best shade for our Maremmas and dairy goats. We have several of these, and they can serve multiple functions. They can be used as mini "barns" for the goats or Maremmas. They provide shelter from rain, cold, and heat. We can put the goat minerals in there during the rainy season to keep them dry. They are an excellent place to feed the dogs so the goats can't steal the food, which can lead to resource guarding. And they are great when we need to temporarily contain an animal or group of animals, such as when we need to work in the pasture without the animals getting in the way. We have kennels for this purpose in most of our pastures and plan to add others eventually.

You can buy kennels from places like Tractor Supply or Lowes. We have a few of these, but the quality could be better, and they are not very easy to assemble. Our favorite kennels come from K9 Kennel Store. These kennels are much more expensive than the ones bought locally, and the shipping is costly, but the quality is worth it. They assemble with pins, like the corral panels used for horses, so it takes mere minutes to put them together or take them apart. They come in different sizes, or you can buy individual panels and use whatever you need to make different sizes and configurations. I prefer to buy configurations that use 4' and 6' panels since they are easier for me to move than the 8' panels.

You can also buy canvas roofs and side covers that provide additional shade or protection from the weather and keep the rain and sun off. These are super easy to put up and take down as needed. Much, much easier than the ones from Tractor Supply or Lowes!

There are many other ways to provide shade for your livestock guardian dogs and goats. If you are handy with carpentry work or can hire someone to build a structure, you can provide something nice. I'm not talented in that area, so I have devised other measures that work well for us. But eventually, I would like to have some more permanent structures built. Structures that are a few feet off the ground and can double as climbing structures for the goats and shade structures for the dogs and goats would be perfect.

Digging to Keep Cool

Another way most dogs like to keep cool is by digging holes. If you provide them with a place to do it, they will take care of it themselves. Usually, they will find a shady, sandy spot or a spot that is already mostly bare dirt, and they will dig themselves a nice little Hobbit hole. Then they will lay in it to keep cool. If you don't have such a spot, you could give your dogs a sandbox in a shady area or build a sandbox with a roof so they have a nice soft spot to dig and lay.

Since we don't have grass and only have an endless supply of dirt, I don't have this problem. My dogs make their own Hobbit holes to keep cool in. Usually, I manage to step in these holes when I'm out in the pastures and have fallen flat on my face many times because of these "Maremma death traps." Texting and walking in a pasture is almost as dangerous as texting and driving.

Water, the Essential Element for Keeping Animals Cool

Water is crucial for hydrating and keeping your Livestock Guardian Dogs and other anaimals cool when temperatures soar. They should have easy access to plenty of water, and you should refresh it as needed.

You may find that your Livestock Guardian Dogs like to submerge themselves in the water because it keeps them cool. (Most of my Maremmas love water, but a few don't. )Because of this, you will need to change your water regularly. The dogs will pollute the water so that no one wants to drink it, especially if you own goats, who are more picky about having clean water than dogs.

What works well is to provide drinking water for the animals and "swimming" water for the dogs in two separate containers. You can use a child's wading pool for the dogs, but using a shallow trough for horses or livestock works better. These are sturdier than wading pools and are easier to empty and clean. And they hold up better to dogs and livestock than children's wading pools do.

For providing drinking water, you want to use smaller containers to discourage the dogs from using them for wading. The easiest way to do this is to use a flatback horse bucket of approximately 20 quarts. Then you attach an automatic waterer designed for livestock to that bucket. (You can find these on Amazon or Tractor Supply, usually for less than $20.) Attach that to a hose and clip the whole thing to a fence or other stable object. That way, the water will continually fill, but the bucket is small enough that the dogs cannot usually play in it. The animals will always have clean water, and then you provide separate water for the dogs to swim in. These smaller buckets are also easy to dump, scrub, and clean periodically to keep algae and other nasty stuff out.

You can use the automatic waterers to fill the swimming water or fill those with a hose. But those need to be dumped and cleaned up more often because the dogs will get them quite dirty when using them. The animals sometimes choose to drink from them, but that is their choice. I do always provide separate water so that they have clean water available.

If you own ducks or geese that share a pasture with your Livestock Guardian Dogs or other livestock, you'll have to dump and clean the water at least daily. They make a terrible mess of the water, and it's not fit for other animals to use or drink. I will cover keeping poultry cool later in this article. 🐓🦃🦆

Of course, you can always have however many buckets you need and fill them with a hose by hand, but I have a lot of animals, so this method works much better for me. I prefer to put as much on autopilot as I can. This way, I only need to check that everything is working instead of filling the waters daily.

Automatic Waterers

In addition to the portable automatic waterers described above, I love a great tool called a Lixit. You can find these on Amazon and sometimes at pet stores or hardware stores. They attach to the faucet, and the animal learns to lick the end of it and make the water come out. I install Lixits in all of my pastures so that the animals can always access clean water in addition to the water provided in other containers. My goats, in particular, love these and prefer them over drinking out of buckets. (Remember what I said about goats being picky about clean water? 🐐) Most of my pasture faucets are 5' off the ground, so I use a 3' leader hose to bring the Lixit to a better height for drinking and zip-tie it to the nearby fence.

Another really great option we use for water is a product called a Nelson Waterer. These stainless steel automatic waterers are a bit expensive but they hold up very well to the wear and tear of dogs and livestock.

Putting it All Together

Usually, I get a four-way hose splitter and put that on my faucet. Then I have hoses going to the different water troughs and containers. I have one hose for the swimming water, one hose for the small bucket that the animals drink out of, one hose for the Lixit, and one extra hose for cleaning out buckets, filling other water buckets, and whatever else I need.

To keep your hoses from blowing out and causing the water to overflow, you can put a pressure regulator (designed for drip irrigation systems) on your faucet before you attach everything else. You can get these from Amazon or any hardware store. Make sure all your rubber washers are good quality and in good condition, and if you need to, you can also use plumbers' tape to minimize leaks.

The Zero-G brand cloth hoses last much longer than rubber hoses, and the dogs are less likely to chew on them. I've also found some metal hoses on Amazon that hold up to most chewers. But a determined chewer will even chew these up, so be aware! (Ask me how I know! 🤦🏻‍♀️)

Electrolytes, Ice Packs and Animal Popcicles

In hot weather, electrolytes are crucial for animals. They help by replenishing fluids, balancing hydration, facilitating muscle function, supporting nerve signaling and cooling mechanisms, and maintaining organ function. Adequate electrolyte intake helps animals cope with heat stress and stay healthy.

Electrolytes are especially beneficial for goats (sheep, cows, or other dairy animals) if they are in milk. They can help prevent production from dropping due to dehydration. There are species-specific electrolytes for different animals. You can use them interchangeably, or you can get an all-species electrolyte. These powders look like Kool-Aid, and you mix them into the water.

The brand I like best for my goats is Goat and Sheep BlueLite, from Premier 1 Supplies. This brand is the best one on the market, and the goats go crazy for it. For horses, I usually use Red Cell or a similar brand. For poultry, I use a poultry-specific brand.

There are electrolytes made for dogs, but I only use them if I have a sick dog, and it won't hurt the dogs to drink the ones for goats or other livestock. But they may or may not like it. Whenever I offer electrolytes, I put them in a separate bucket and offer them plain water in addition to the electrolytes. I do this to ensure the animals still drink even if they don't care for the electrolytes, and so the automatic waterers don't dilute the electrolyte solution.

If the weather is especially hot you can use cooler ice packs and float them in the water. You can make homemade ice packs out of empty soda bottles or milk jugs. Before we built our puppy parlor we used the ice packs in the whelping box to keep puppies cool in the summer. It was still too hot, which is why we built the Puppy Parlor.

You can also make "popsicles" for your animals, using things like frozen broth or goat milk for the dogs and some combination of fruit or vegetables for goats, sheep, horses and poultry. Lay the "popsicle" in a dog dish or feed bucket so it doesn't all get wasted as it melts.

Misting Systems and Fans

Misting systems and fans can be a great way to keep livestock guardian dogs and other animals cool. Fans can be as simple as a box or stand fan pointing in the right direction. Or you can get fans with built-in misters. Just be sure to keep cords out of reach of your animals, as they can get electrocuted if they chew on the cords. Fans are especially helpful for cooling animals in a more enclosed building like a barn or chicken coop.

You can also install a mister system along a fence, a dog kennel, a barn wall, or some other spot. Misters provide a fine mist of water and can be put on a timer to come on and off automatically. We have used these in the past. Some systems are better than others, so definitely do your research here.

Of course, goats will not appreciate any of these methods of using water to help them cool off other than the drinking water and the electrolytes. Goats hate getting wet. They don't like rain. They don't like swimming, and they don't like misters. They would rather be hot than get wet, so if you own goats, the misters are only for the benefit of your Livestock Guardian Dogs. Your goats will watch the dogs having fun in the water and wonder if they have lost their minds.

Take a Siesta Approach to Life

Dogs are intelligent creatures. Most farm animals are smart, too. They will take a page from a book of many cultures and take a nice siesta during the hottest parts of the day. I suggest you go with this natural flow of things and allow them to do that. If you have activities such as training or husbandry care like trimming hooves, grooming, or anything else, it would be best to do that in the early morning or late evening hours.

If you have a cool building to work in, that might be a good option. But I don't suggest working with the animals outside when it is too hot. That will be harder on them and you. Allowing them to rest and stay cool during the hottest hours reduces stress on them and you as the owner.

We do most of our barn work at night, right before it gets dark and on into the night. Some people prefer to get up early to do their chores, but that doesn't work for me, so we do things this way. We also have our Puppy Parlor and an air-conditioned dog grooming trailer that we can use if we need anything done during the day. But for general outdoor activities, we do all that after it cools off.

Grooming Helps Keep Dogs Cooler

Keep your Livestock Guardian Dog cool and comfortable with regular grooming. Grooming removes mats, tangles, and loose fur and improves air circulation around their skin, allowing heat to escape more easily. Plus, maintaining clean coats helps prevent the buildup of dirt and debris, ensuring good airflow. Grooming controls shedding and reduces the risk of heat-related illnesses like heatstroke. Help your loyal LGD beat the heat and stay healthy with proper grooming.

Keeping Poultry Cool

Summertime can be challenging for poultry, as birds can be more susceptible to the heat than mammals. All of the steps already discussed apply to farm birds. Here's a recap, plus a few extra tips.

Provide shaded areas for birds to retreat from the sun. Use shade cloth, trees, or some of the recommended shelters. Keep the waterers in the shade to cool the water and refresh them periodically.
If your birds are in a coop, be sure it has good ventilation. You can use fans to circulate the air, but keep them at a safe distance from the birds.
If your birds are free range, make sure they have easy access to shade.
Provide plenty of cool water. Your birds will need access to cool water throughout the day. Consider using a large waterer, and add frozen water bottles to help keep the water cool.
Ducks and geese should have extra water for swimming. You can use the recommendations made earlier in this post. Remember to change the water often and ensure the birds don't pollute the water for the Livestock Guardian Dogs and other animals.
Misters are an excellent way to decrease the temperature and keep your birds cool. You can install misters around your coop or run area and set them to a timer to provide periodic cooling bursts.
Your birds will be more comfortable if they can keep themselves clean, so providing a dust bath is a good idea. If you have a dusty barnyard like us, your birds will make their own dust baths. Otherwise, a shallow pan filled with sand or dirt will encourage your birds to keep themselves clean and can also help keep them cool.

Conclusion

Don't let the summer heat endanger your Livestock Guardian Dogs and their charges. It's easy to keep them cool and comfortable if you follow the tips shared in this blog post. Provide shade, fresh, clean water, and consider scheduling activities for cooler parts of the day. By taking these measures and being proactive about your animals' well-being, you'll ensure that all of your animals remain happy, healthy, and protected all summer long.

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If You're In Santa Barbara, Stop By the Zoo and Say Hello to the Four Prancing Pony Farm Zoo Goats!

7/1/2023

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Growing up as a city kid in Memphis, Tennesse, one of my favorite places to go was the Memphis Zoo. Later as a mom of six kids, visiting the Zoo was a favorite family activity. As a Navy family, we have visited big and small zoos all over the United States. And as grandchildren started coming along, going to the Zoo with them was also lots of fun. Zoo memberships are a great way to support your local zoon and enjoy many visits throughout the year without breaking the bank.

Undoubtedly my favorite part of any zoo is the petting zoo. I know most people go to the Zoo to see wild animals and I enjoy that, too. But since I wanted to live on a farm since I was a little kid and didn't achieve that dream until I was 50 years old, the petting zoo was an excellent way for me to get a little up close and personal time with the types of farm animals I hoped to one day own. And without a doubt, my favorite animals in the petting zoo were the goats. I could have spent hours watching and petting those fascinating creatures. Of course, my family usually had other ideas, so I didn't get to spend that long with the goats, but I took whatever time I could!

Now that I have a farm of my own and more goats and other farm animals than I can count, I tend to spend more time visiting the wild animals when I visit a zoo, but I still believe petting zoos are lovely places. Where else can city kids like me meet, pet, and interact with real farm animals? How many of those kids grow up, like I did, to own farm animals of their own?

As much as I love and value zoos and zoo petting zoos, I can not begin to describe how excited I was earlier this spring when I checked my voicemail to find a message from Dr. Julie Barnes, DVM, the veterinarian at the Santa Barbara Zoo! I listened in disbelief when she told me that the Zoo was interested in purchasing some of my Mini Nubian kids for their petting zoo. That was one phone call I returned in a hurry, believe me! The idea that so many people from all over would be meeting some of my goats at the Zoo was very exciting.

After much discussion, it was decided that the Zoo would purchase four Mini Nubian kids from my farm: two doelings and two wethers. The two doelings are sisters, and the two wethers are brothers. Maggie and Loki are the parents of the doelings, and Dixie and Loki are the parents of the wethers. So technically, all four kids are siblings! ☺️

Since the Zoo is accredited, specific processes and procedures had to be adhered to. The first is that biosecurity test results on the parents are required. Since we keep a clean, tested herd, that was no problem. The kids also needed to be bought from a herd enrolled in the USDA Scrapie ID program, and the kids needed to be properly identified with USDA Scrapie ID. Also, no problem since we are enrolled in the program and use USDA Scrapie microchips on our goats. A site inspection would also be done when the zoo staff came to pick up the goats, with some minor paperwork to be filled out.

A few weeks later, the exciting day arrived when two staff members, Kristen and Patrick, drove from Santa Barbara to pick up their new kids! Seeing the SUV covered in painted butterflies and Zoo signs pull into my driveway was beyond exciting. Then meeting Kristen and Patrick and showing them around my farm was so cool. We drove around on my golf cart so they could see the herd in the back pasture without disturbing our Maremma Sheepdog Livestock Guardian Dogs at work or risking biosecurity. Then we went to the pick up area near the Puppy Parlor, where the Zoo kids were waiting to head off on their new adventure. Kristen Facetimed Dr. Barnes so she could inspect the kids while Patrick got things set up and ready for them. Of course, I took lots of photos as we got the kids ready to go. Then they were loaded up for the trip and on their way back to the Zoo!

Dr. Barnes let me know when everyone safely made it to the Zoo and updated me on how they were settling in. She told me that the kids would go through a quarantine and acclimation period for a while before they were put on public display in the petting zoo. I agreed that I would not post anything about them until I got the green light to do so by the marketing department. In the meantime, I was given frequent updates on how the goats were doing and how much of a hit they were with the staff. Finally, the day came when Dr Barnes texted me to say the kids were now on display, and I was free to share about them.

So there you go; I am proud to announce that The Santa Barbara Zoo is now home to four Prancing Pony Farm Mini Nubian goats! So if you go to the Santa Barbara Zoo, stop by the petting zoo exhibit and say hello to my babies for me!

If you would like to become the proud owner of your own Prancing Pony Farm goats just click on the button below and reserve your kids today!

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Does Feeding Alfalfa Hay Cause Urinary Calculi (Kidney Stones) in Goats?

6/28/2023

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Jardine Meadows Jessie, Mini Nubian doe, eating alfalfa hay

Jardine Meadows Jessie helping herself to some yummy alfalfa

If I feed my goats alfalfa hay, will it cause Urinary Calculi (kidney stones)?

This is the number one question I get asked by new goat owners. I get this question in one form or another so often that I have been meaning to write a post about it for years, but I kept forgetting. But when two clients recently asked me the same question two days in a row I finally decided I needed to write that post. So here goes!

Most people believe that the answer to the question is yes. Most of them are terrified to feed alfalfa, or at least to feed too much of it. Even veterinarians will often say alfalfa causes Urinary Calculi. But that is one of the biggest urban legends out there about feeding goats, and one that truly drives me crazy!

We go through tons and tons of alfalfa a year. My goats love it, as you can see!

The simple answer is that feeding alfalfa hay to goats doesn't generally cause Urinary Calculi. Urinary calculi is primarily caused by too much phosphorus in the diet. Grain, grass hay, and forage hay are all high in phosphorus. Feeding grain is the fastest way to cause stones since it is very high in phosphorous. Here at Prancing Pony Farm, we only feed grain to does when milking them. Bucks, dry does, and kids do not get any grain except for an occasional treat or bribe to get them to come into the barn.

Alfalfa is really good for goats, especially dairy goats. It's rich in calcium, with a ratio of 4:1 on average. Ideally, you want a balance of at least two parts calcium to one part phosphorus in the diet. Adding alfalfa can supply this needed calcium and help prevent kidney stones from forming. It's high in protein, calories, and other nutrients, eliminating the need for grain to put weight on most goats. Goats love it so they readily eat it. The only problem with feeding too much alfalfa is that some goats will get fat. But that's from overfeeding more than the type of hay used. When my bucks start looking pregnant I know it's time to cut back on the alfalfa! 😂

Feeding goats is hard work!

Some say that while goats need at least a 2:1 calcium-to-phosphorous ratio, feeding straight alfalfa will cause another type of kidney stone. I don't know if that's true, and I haven't seen it in my herd. People want to focus on one ingredient as the culprit in the diet when it's not that simple. Other mineral imbalances and dehydration can also cause Urinary Calculi. (Just like in humans.) So I recommend people use quality minerals and ensure their goats have fresh, clean water. Balance the grass hay with some alfalfa, and don't feed grain.

An alfalfa/grass mix is ideal for most people, especially for pet goats or males, who don't need excess calories. For my herd, I feed primarily straight alfalfa. That's because it's the most economical and best nutrition for breeding goats. Grass hay is too expensive here, so I don't use that for my goats at all. I was feeding grass hay to my ponies and my donkey for a while, but even they get straight alfalfa now. Occasionally I'll buy a little forage hay for variety, but the goats and horses tend to waste that. I prefer to feed alfalfa and have them eat it all.

Besides milking, this is how we use grain, and it doesn't take much!

I have been feeding straight alfalfa for seven years and have never had a goat with kidney stones. I heard the same thing about horses long before I had goats. I heard that if you fed horses too much alfalfa, they would get kidney stones. But most of my horses have eaten nothing but alfalfa most of their lives. And most of them have lived into their 30s. None of them have ever had kidney stones, either.

All my goats get alfalfa hay and Craftsmin organic loose minerals from Holistic Livestock Supply. I also add Premier One Supply's vitamin A, D, and E premix, to combat vitamin E deficiency. Because of the California droughts and our general weather patterns (we get rain only a few months of the year), we don't have green forage here most of the year. Even alfalfa can't supply enough vitamin E so adding the premix in helps. If I feed any grain to my milking does, it's usually whole oats, crimped barley, or COB, and used sparingly.

And that's how I feed my herd. Of course, wethers are more at risk for Urinary Calculi than does or bucks. I don't own any wethers so I can't share any experience there. I can only share what I do and how I feed my herd of bucks, does and kids. I urge everyone to research and do what works for them and their goats.

Goats will help themselves to yummy alfalfa!

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It's Your Dog. There is No One "Right" Way to Raise, Train and Own a Livestock Guardian Dog, Even My Way.

6/23/2023

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I will probably ruffle some feathers with this post, but something has been bothering me for a while, and I need to share my thoughts in my own rambling way. As a breeder and trainer of Maremma Sheepdogs and an advocate of the breed, I have been very vocal in how I believe Livestock Guardian Dogs should be raised and socialized as puppies. I firmly believe that LGD puppies should get a very early start with livestock and continue that way until they are grown. Puppies have critical socialization periods in the early weeks, and taking advantage of those periods by having them immersed with livestock at that age can ensure their future success as LGDs.

I feel strongly about this issue because I have acquired puppies from breeders who raise their dogs as companion dogs in those first weeks and months. These pups were raised in houses, backyards, and patios, with no livestock exposure until they came to my farm at 3-4 months old. I have seen the effect of this lack of early livestock exposure on their training (it's a lot more work to train them) and how those dogs turned out compared to how my puppies turned out. I firmly believe that how I raise my pups is the best practice for LGDs, and what is advocated on some Facebook groups is terrible advice. I even wrote a blog post entitled "Debunking the Shepherd Way Myth of Livestock Guardian Dog Training."

I stand behind what I said in that post. However, I need to clarify what I mean by how I raise my puppies. I also have probably not understood what others mean when they refer to themselves as "shepherds."

After I wrote that blog post, I had an interesting discussion with someone in my Maremma Sheepdog Open Forum Facebook group who advocates the "Shepherd Way" of training. And I found that she and I had a lot more in common than we thought. So there is more of a communication issue than a conflict of beliefs here.

I have one adult Maremma named Titus, who is a companion dog. He lives inside my house full-time with my other three companion dogs. I bred him, and he was raised outside with the stock until he was 5 months old. He's been a house dog ever since. He is perfectly house-trained, leash-trained, and crate trained. He has gone on many walks in regular neighborhoods, to the dog park many times, to the vet, to the groomers, and on long car trips. None of this happened before he was 5 months old, but he quickly adjusted to this companion dog life.

The "companion home" discussion is an issue for another post, which I hope to write soon. For years I turned down any requests for companion homes for my puppies. I did this primarily because of what other breeders said or what I read on Facebook. I now realize I missed out on many great homes for my pups for no good reason. And since I started saying "yes" to the occasional request for companion puppies, I have learned even more about these fantastic dogs. Choosing to keep one of my puppies as a companion dog has taught me even more. They really can thrive in pet homes. In the right home with a dedicated owner. Just like in working homes. It's primarily the commitment of the owner that matters. But again, that's a topic I plan to expand on another day.

Other than Titus, the rest of my Maremmas live outside with the livestock 24/7. They never come inside my house. But that is mainly because my house is several hundred feet from my barn and not attached by any fence. I would have to put them on a leash and walk them to my house to bring them inside. That is too much work when I am busy caring for a farm and running a business. But if my property were set up differently, I imagine my other Maremmas would come in to "visit" occasionally. Probably the goats, too. 😆

But because my dogs live outside, does that mean I'm not "shepherding" them? While I'm not too fond of the term, it's probably a relatively accurate description of my role with my dogs. I don't have an "off-farm" job. I run a business breeding dairy goats and Maremmas. I spend several hours a day outside taking care of my animals. I even sleep outside sometimes if puppies or goats are being born. Therefore I spend plenty of time bonding with my puppies and my dogs. I have no need to bring them into the house to bond with them because we bond outside. That is probably the main area where I differ from the "Shepherd Way" advocates.

I am NOT an advocate of the "hand-off" method of LGD training. Not at all. I utilize and advocate only positive training methods with my puppies. I also raise my puppies using Puppy Culture and Badass Breeder methods. I have a very carefully laid out puppy socialization program, exposing the puppies to sights, sounds, new people, and activities. This ensures that the puppies will be resilient and well-adjusted and thrive in various homes, including working or companion homes or something in between.

Another point I should make is that I sell puppies at 12 weeks or later. Most are in the 4-8 month range when they leave here. And I primarily sell puppies in pairs or to homes with another LGD, so there are no "8-week-old puppies alone in a barn" coming from my farm. Most of my pups are 50-60 lbs or more when they leave my farm. They aren't tiny babies.

And if someone insists on owning a single LGD, I make it very clear that they will have to spend a lot of time with their puppy to compensate for the deficit. All of my dogs work in pairs or teams so I do not advocate single dogs alone with the livestock.

But the actual topic of this post is not how I manage my own dogs or socialize my puppies. That's just the backstory. My point here is that even though I believe what I am doing is right for my dogs and the puppies I breed, it is not the only way for people to manage their dogs. I am not of the "my way or the highway" camp.

Obviously, if someone does not feel comfortable doing things the way I do or cannot do them, then my trying to force them to be just like me will not help them. And my goal as a breeder is always to help my puppy owners succeed with their dogs. I worry that people may have read my post and thought that if they did things any differently than the way I recommend, I would be mad at them or criticize them. And nothing could be further from the truth.

Many of my puppy families do things differently than I do. I have had families who raised their puppies in the house for part of the time initially. Some may continue to let their dogs come and go indoors. Some clients bought their dogs as LGDs and later sold their farms. Their dogs transitioned to the companion dog life with no problem.

Many of my families do fun and cool things with their dogs, like taking them on vacation, camping, to the beach, or on family trips. One family takes their dog regularly to their vacation home in the mountains. He goes on hikes with them to protect them from mountain lions. That's an excellent use of their dog and fun for dog and family alike!

The simple fact is that all these dogs have thrived under their owners' management. They succeeded because their owners were committed to making things work. They just made things work in the way that worked for them. I do not have a problem with that. Why should I? The dogs are happy, the people are happy, and, I assume, the livestock is safe in the dogs' absence. That is all that matters.

There is a person in the Maremma industry that I used to have a lot of respect for. I will call her "the Maremma guru" because that describes what she seems to believe she is. She is always talking about "what is true for white dogs" as if she is the only one that knows that truth. She seems to think she speaks for the Maremmas in much the same way that the Lorax speaks for the trees.

There are a lot of people in the LGD community that don't agree with her; people who have a much longer history and more experience with these dogs than she has. But she came onto the scene and declared herself the expert, refuting what people who had decades of experience said. I foolishly believed everything she said for a long time. I drank deeply from her particular brand of koolaide.

I used to tell people she knew more about the breed than anyone in the US. I promoted her tirelessly, referred many people to her for help and even had many links to her business on my own website. We had a lot in common and a lot we agreed on. There are still things we agree on.

But the more I got to know her, the more I realized that there was a lot that we disagreed on. There was a lot I felt like she was dead wrong about. (Like the Companion Maremma issue.) I no longer believe she knows as much as either of us thought she did. No one is right about everything. Being able to admit that is important. Eventually we parted ways and we are both better off for it. I know I am, anyway.

One thing I thought I had in common with her was this belief that the "Shepherd Way" was wrong. But as I talked to other people, I realized that I had more in common with advocates of the Shepherd Way than I thought and less with her. And I realized that being a shepherd is not a bad thing or a good thing. It's simply how some people describe their interactions with their dogs. It's a funny term, but I don't have a problem if people want to use it.

When the Maremma guru and I were still friends, she used to refer people to me occasionally to buy puppies. In almost every instance, she told me that she was "sending someone my way" because they were "not good enough" for her dogs, but they would be "fine" for me. I was always unsure about how I should take that. 🤔 It seemed like a backhanded compliment. But I appreciated the referrals.

Most of these people she "sent my way" never contacted me, but a few did buy dogs from me. The first time it happened, she later told me, "I can't believe you sold him a puppy." She didn't like the guy, and I think her referral was a test. Apparently I failed the test. I told her he was a very nice guy with a lovely farm, his other LGD needed a partner, and his sheep required protection. And I told her she shouldn't have referred him to me if she didn't want me to sell him a puppy. 🤷🏻‍♀️ That ended the discussion.

Another time she referred someone to me to buy a puppy as a partner for her adult LGD. She told me the client used an invisible fence, and I "would have to discuss what to do about that" with her. Again, this seemed like a test. I talked to the client. She told me she has an easement that requires her neighbors to drive through her property to get to their house. This means she can't have a gate across her road. She uses only positive training with her dogs and cats but uses an invisible fence to keep them safe. I have a couple of fence jumpers, so I understand that dilemma. A hotwire at the top of my fence was the only solution I found that worked. And an invisible fence makes sense for this client. It certainly is better than a dog getting out. Being hit by a car is as aversive as you can get. 😢 I gladly sold her the puppy, and she's been one of my best clients yet. I hear from her almost weekly, with frequent photos and updates. I may have failed the Maremma guru's test, but my puppy won, big time, in getting a wonderful home, invisible fence and all.

Another person was referred to me by the Maremma guru around the same time as the invisible fence client. The Maremma guru had sold dogs to this new client's neighbors and repossessed them later. (She did this frequently whenever a new owner did something she disapproved of.) I knew about that situation because the Maremma guru told me about it without remorse. And why, you might ask, did the Maremma guru repossess the dogs? What terrible thing did the clients do? She told me they "made the dogs into pets." Meaning they let them in the house occasionally. Shocking, I know.

When my new client came to me, she was extremely nervous about buying dogs, partly because she had seen what the Maremma guru had done to her neighbors. She told me it was traumatic, with lots of begging, crying, and screaming when the dogs were taken away. I was later told by another party that those people had bought the dogs from the Maremma guru in the first place because their previous dog had died. Of course, that made the whole situation all the more traumatic. I can't imagine inflicting that kind of pain on people without just cause. And just cause would be something like abuse of the dogs. That was not the case here, from what I've heard.

My new client had already placed a non-refundable $1000 deposit on two pups, but when the dogs were ready to go, she was still having second thoughts. Until the day she took them home, she debated backing out on the sale. She was apprehensive that something would go wrong. And a lot of the reason why she was so worried was because of her neighbor's experience with the Maremma guru.

The client lives in Oregon, so she drove to my farm in California "for a visit and to maybe get the pups." Her visit required two days and an overnight hotel stay. On the first day, she spent five hours at my farm, interacting with the puppies and asking me a million questions. She asked me what she should do if she wanted to go on a trip. Could she take the dogs? Her husband races cars, and they go out of state for his races. She wanted to know if it would be ok if they brought the dogs along. I told her that as long as her livestock would be safe at home, there was no reason not to take the dogs if she wanted them to go.

This client spent five hours asking me one question after another like she was testing me to see if there would be something I would say that would be a red flag to her. She was worried that she would do something wrong and that I would repossess the dogs like the Maremma guru had done to her neighbors.

I finally told her that while the Maremma guru and I agreed on a lot and respected her very much, I was not her. I did things very differently and I was not going to repossess her dogs. I told her that once the dogs left my farm, they were no longer mine, and it was not my business or choice what she did with the dogs. I told her what I always say to my clients. "They are your dogs; you can do whatever you want with them. You don't need my permission or my blessing."

She went to her hotel to think it over. Then she called the following day to tell me she was buying the puppies. She came and got the two she had liked the best and took them home. And she has been a wonderful puppy owner. I don't know if the dogs ever go on race car trips with her and her family. It's not my place to ask. They are no longer my dogs.

Now I would not advocate anyone doing anything to harm their dogs, and that includes using aversive training methods. But if somebody wants to take their dogs on outings or on vacation or let them sleep in the house with them every night, that is their business. Truly.

This is not to say that I don't believe that my way of training is not superior to how a lot of people manage their dogs. I do. How I train works best for me as a breeder, and it's what works best for my livestock. Having owned dogs raised my way and the opposite way, I would never again buy a puppy from anyone who doesn't raise puppies the way I do. No more patio puppies for me! But that's my personal choice, based on what works for me.

And I will continue to raise my puppies the way I do while they are under my care because it's the ideal way to raise, train and socialize LGDs. The proof is in the dogs I have produced over the years. But once those puppies leave here and go to their new homes, they are no longer my dogs. And my puppy owners need to do what works for them and their new dogs.

So don't worry. If you buy one of my puppies and want to do things differently from the way I do, I will not be mad at you. I'm not going to tell you you're doing it wrong. Instead, I will do my best to support you. Because it is not my dog anymore. It's your dog.

Reserve Your Maremma

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Jess, an Incredible Livestock Guardian Dog whose Life Was Cut Tragically Short by Bloat

6/20/2023

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Jess - March 31, 2019 - June 14, 2023

I have owned Maremma Sheepdogs since 2016 and have been breeding since 2017. I have had the honor of placing my puppies in many wonderful homes throughout the United States and Canada. Our puppy families absolutely adore their dogs and many of them stay in contact with me, even as far back as my first litter. I hear from some of them several times a month or more. Others send me occasional updates and photos. People are busy so I understand if not everyone has time to keep in touch. But I really appreciate those who do. I never tire of hearing how my pups are doing, how they serve their owners as Livestock Guardian Dogs or companions, and how much they are valued and loved. I especially love receiving photos of the dogs with their human and animal families. This connection is so special and makes me feel that I still know these dogs, even though I have not seen most of them in person since the day they left my farm.

For a long time I have wanted to start a blog post series about the amazing dogs I've bred and the lives they live out in the world, in their various jobs and families. I wanted to give people a glimpse of what life looks like for these cute little puppies after they leave my farm. The dogs I've bred are living and working in such a wide variety of homes, from small one acre urban homesteads to huge ranches of hundreds of acres. They guard everything from chickens and goats to Emus and Dressage Horses, and everything in between. A few guard only their human families or the other family pets. All are wonderful dogs, doing important work and very beloved by their owners. There are a lot of great stories to tell so I knew this new series would be both educational and entertaining for my readers.

However, life sometimes goes differently than planned when you own animals. Sometimes as a breeder, we are called to mourn with our clients instead of celebrating. That was the case recently when one of my puppy families lost their dog tragically and unexpectedly to bloat, or Gastric Dilation-Volvulus. Her name was Jess, and she was an incredible Livestock Guardian Dog and much loved member of her family. She was only 4 years old when her life was so cruelly cut short. So in order to honor Jess and raise awareness about bloat in dogs, I am writing my first post in this new series about her.

The Story of Jess, Beloved LGD and Family Member

Randy & Stacey, with granddaughters Sadie & Lily, the day they picked up Jess & Jack from my farm

Jess was owned by my client, Randy and his wife, Stacey. They raise Soay sheep, a small breed of sheep which they use for fire abatement. (The sheep eat down the excess vegetation around their house and property, reducing the risk of forest fires.) They run a flock of around 60 sheep in bear and mountain lion country in northern California. Bears and lions are some serious predators, but thanks to Jess and her other Maremma partners Randy and Stacey have never lost a single sheep.

Randy and Stacey first visited my farm in 2019, when their family came to choose two pups from my third litter of Maremmas Sheepdog puppies. The parents of the puppies were my first two unregistered Maremmas, Olaf and Genevieve, whom I still own today. Accompanied by Randy and Stacey were their daughter, Shelbie, who was soon to be leaving for college, and their two adorable and sweet granddaughters, Sadie and Lily.

I immensely enjoyed the couple of hours the family spent visiting with the puppies and me. They met parents Olaf and Genevieve, and one-year-old big sister, Polar. (Polar was born in 2018 in Olaf and Genevieve's second litter.) They asked many thoughtful questions and discussed the merits of each puppy with me and each other. They intended to buy two puppies for their farm, but choosing two from a litter of nine was no easy task! But eventually, the family did choose their pups, a brother and sister they would later name Jack and Jess. The puppies were not quite ready to leave yet, so they came back 2 weeks later to pick them up. I enjoyed occasional updates about the pups from Randy after that, as well as photos of the dogs with the family and the sheep.

Photos of Jess and Jack's Litter

In 2021, Randy returned to purchase an MSCA registered breeding male for his farm. Like me, Randy greatly valued his unregistered Maremmas, but had decided to transition into breeding MSCA-registered dogs. He also purchased a breeding female from another MSCA breeder around the time that he bought his third puppy from me. Randy came by himself to pick up his new puppy, whom he named River.

Again, I really enjoyed my time talking with Randy. He is such a nice person and we share so much of the same goals and values in relation to Maremmas, including a deep love and respect for the breed. He told me how much he adored Jack and Jess and what excellent LGDs they were. He also told me that Jess was his particular favorite of all his dogs and pure perfection as an LGD. I feel the same way about Polar, whom I consider my best LGD, so this made me very proud to hear.

Photos of River's Litter

Jess & River

Randy sent occasional updates about Jess, Jack, and River over the next few years. He later told me that he had made the decision to spay the breeding female he had bought from the other breeder. He said that while he loved her and would keep her, her temperament was much harder to manage than Jess, Jack and River's and required a lot of extra training. He didn't want to risk passing that temperament on to puppies or causing difficulties for potential owners, so he spayed her. I applauded him for making the right decision for the breed and future puppy owners.

He told me that all three dogs he had bought from me were outstanding LGDs. He calls them, "Plug and Play", a term I love and that describes perfectly what I have seen in Polar and the other pups I've bred. He also said that he had decided that he was going to breed Jess to River, even though the puppies would not be eligible for registration and, thus, would not sell for as much money as puppies from his other female would have. He chose Jess as a breeding dog instead of his registered female because her temperament was perfect, and he knew that temperament was what mattered most in an LGD. Once again, he placed what truly mattered over profits. This showed his true character and commitment as a breeder. Jess went on to produce two litters, sired by River.

Jack (L) and Jess (R) with their sheep

A Very Sad Day
I hadn't heard from Randy for a while, but on June 14th, 2023, he texted to let me know that Jess had died of bloat earlier that day. He said he had seen her at 8 am that morning and she appeared fine, but when he again saw her at 11:45 am she was very sick. He reported that her abdomen was large and tight as a drum, her gums were white, and she was very ill. Randy immediately rushed her to the vet. By the time they got there she could not walk and had to be carried in on a stretcher. They attempted emergency procedures but sadly, she did not make it. Randy and his family were understandably devastated over the loss of such a wonderful, beloved dog.

The news of Jess's death was heartbreaking for me. I felt grief for Randy and his family and immense sadness that such a great dog had endured such a terrible end. But I greatly appreciated Randy letting me know what had happened. As a breeder, I care deeply about the puppies I bring into this world and the families they eventually end up with. And part of that caring is sharing the happy times as well as the tears with my clients. Therefore I appreciate it when owners keep in contact with me, even when they share sad news.

Jess (on top of hay bale) and Jack

I also appreciated Randy sharing the news of Jess's death for another reason. I knew that bloat was a health risk in all large breed dogs, but I had never really researched it much, so I didn't know much about the illness or how much of a risk it was for Maremmas.

I have had two other puppy owners over the years who reported to me that they found their young, healthy dogs dead, with no idea what happened. The last time they saw the dogs they were fine. Then they were gone. Both owners were understandably devastated. I wondered both times if their deaths could have been due to bloat. Both dogs were full siblings to Jess. One was a year older (from the same litter as Polar) and the other was from the same litter as Jess and Jack. Of course we will never know what those dogs died of, but after hearing the news about Jess I am even more inclined to think it was bloat.

But now that I knew that a dog I bred had succumbed to the disease, I decided it was something I should research. Randy shared some information his vet had given him, and I also did my own research. Below are a few things I learned that might be useful to owners of Maremmas or any other breed. And just maybe this information can help save other dogs like Jess.

What All Dog Owners Need to Know About Bloat or Gastric Dilation-Volvulus

Bloat, or gastric dilation and volvulus (GDV), is one of the most dangerous and painful conditions a dog can get and is fatal if not treated. One article I found during my research called it "The mother of all emergencies." No one knows exactly how many dogs in the US are diagnosed with bloat, but some estimates are as high as 60,000 cases per year. Unfortunately, many dog owners know little to nothing about this condition until it is too late, and they have lost a beloved dog to it. If you would like to maximize your chances of preventing your dog from succumbing to this terrible illness please read on.

"Many injuries and physical disorders represent life-threatening emergencies, but there is only one condition so drastic that it overshadows them all in terms of rapidity of consequences and effort in emergency treatment: the gastric dilatation and volvulus – the bloat."
~ Wendy Brooks, DVM DABVP

What is bloat?

Bloat is a condition in which food or gas stretches the dog's stomach, causing extreme pain. Sometimes the stomach twists, causing even more damage and sure death if not treated quickly. Dogs that weigh more than 99 pounds have a 20% risk of bloating. (That means most Maremmas are at risk.) Deep-chested breeds are most at risk, but any dog of any breed can bloat.

Below is a link to a list of the breeds that are most at risk for bloat. While Maremmas are not specifically mentioned (probably because they are a less common breed so most vet practices never see one) they are similar in conformation to many of the listed breeds, including Great Pyrenees.

Breeds That are Predisposed to Bloat

Factors that are believed to increase the risk of bloat are:

Increased age
Having close family members who have bloated (A genetic predisposition)
Eating too quickly
Overeating
Feeding from a raised bowl
Exercising after eating
Feeding dry food with oil as one of the first four ingredients
Drinking a lot of water in a short period
Stress and anxiety (Reduce stress for your dog, if possible. This is another reason to always keep LGDs in compatible pairs or teams and to use positive training methods only.)

Signs of bloat:

Restlessness
Anxiety
Distress
Pacing
Distended or swollen abdomen
Excessive drooling
Extreme panting
Unsuccessful attempts at vomiting
Inability to stand
Collapse

If you suspect your dog is bloating, you should immediately rush him to the vet. Bloat can be fatal if not treated within an hour or two of the onset of symptoms. The treatment is complicated and may require emergency surgery, among other measures. Sadly, despite heroic efforts, 30% of dogs who receive emergency treatment will die anyway. Taking preventative measures is worth trying because bloat is so life-threatening and challenging to treat.

If you have horses you may think that bloat sounds similar to colic in horses. I did. But what I learned is that bloat is actually much more dangerous and a bigger emergency than colic. Whereas some horses get over colic with mild intervention by their owners, bloat always requires immediate medical treatment. If you suspect your dog is bloating get him or her to the vet immediately.

Some factors that might decrease the risk of bloat are:

Adding table scraps, canned food, or other supplements (goat milk, water, broth) to the dry dog food
Feeding a dry food with a calcium rich meat meal in the first four ingredients
Feeding two or more smaller meals instead of one large meal per day
Not allowing the dog to drink too much water at once
Restricting exercise for 1-2 hours after meals
Avoiding raised food bowls unless medically indicated
Using slow feeder bowls if your dog bolts their food
Not allowing your dog to overeat
An easy-going, relaxed temperament. (Reduce stress for your dog, if possible. This is another reason to always keep LGDs in compatible pairs or teams and to use positive training methods only.)

Gastropexy
Another preventative measure that may help save dogs from bloat is a surgery called a gastropexy. This is an elective surgery where the stomach is tacked to the body wall. This can be done during a spay or neuter procedure and reduces the likelihood of the dog bloating by as much as 95%.

Moving On - Life Without Jess

Randy told me that he had been feeding his adult dogs once per day for years (as do I) with no problems. He uses the same brand of food I do (Diamond Naturals) mixed with wet food. That brand has no oil in the first four ingredients but has the recommended meat meal, so it should be a "safe" formula.

He said he would be switching his dogs to twice-per-day feedings and having gastropexy done on all of them at the time of spay/neuter. He said, "We never want to go through this again, and it's a simple procedure to eliminate the risk."

"We never want to go through this again, and it's a simple procedure to eliminate the risk. ~ Randy

Randy still owns Jack, Jess's littermate brother; River, the other dog he bought from me; and Prairie, the spayed female he purchased from another breeder. He also is blessed to still own three of Jess's puppies. He will keep one of them so that her legacy lives on in her absence. He said, "We miss her and can't believe she's gone."

"We miss her and can't believe she's gone." ~ Randy

Having lost beloved animals of my own, I can sympathize so much with Randy and understand the pain he feels. Those exceptional animals are the hardest to get over. I don't think you ever truly can. But over time, you can eventually get to a place where you remember the good times instead of being blindsided by the overwhelming pain of their loss. My prayer is that Randy and his family would get to that place soon. But having gone through similar losses many times myself, I know it will take as long as it takes to heal their broken hearts.

More Information on Bloat

If you own a Maremma or other large breed dog, I urge you to research bloat, and take whatever preventative measures you can to prevent this terrible illness from taking the life of your precious dog. I know I will be making some changes with my dogs, just as Randy is. Below are some links to get you started on learning how to protect your dog:

Jess, faithful guardian to the end, gone but never forgotten

If you enjoyed this story about Jess and found this information on bloat helpful please share this post, to help raise awareness of this dangerous health risk to dogs. If you would like more content like this please subscribe to our mailing list. Thank you.

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What Are Mini Nubians and What's So Great About Them?

6/5/2023

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What are Mini Nubians?

Mini Nubians are a mid-sized dairy breed that crosses Nigerian Dwarfs and standard-sized Nubian goats. Mini Nubians can be registered with MDGA, TMGR, and IDGR if they come from registered parent stock. These parents can be ADGA/AGS Nigerian Dwarfs, ADGA standard Nubians, or registered Mini Nubians of any generation. Mini Nubians are registered in three categories: Experimental (F1-F2), American (F3-F5), and Purebred (F6 and up).

You cannot use breeds other than Nigerian Dwarfs, standard Nubians, or Mini Nubians to produce Mini Nubians. Not Pygmy goats, fainting goats, Boers, or anything else. Just a combination of Nigerian Dwarf and Nubian.

You should always cross the smaller (or same size) breed buck with the larger doe. So Nigerian Dwarf buck to standard sized doe, or Mini Nubian buck to Mini Nubian or standard Nubian doe. You should NEVER breed a standard-sized Nubian buck or Mini Nubian buck to a Nigerian Dwarf doe. (Nor is it wise to breed a standard Nubian buck to a Mini Nubian doe.) The resulting kids could be too large for the doe to safely deliver, resulting in the need for veterinary intervention, a c-section, death of the kids, or death of the doe. It is not worth the risk!

Prancing Pony Elodie Purebred Mini Nubian doe and kids

Prancing Pony Elodie, Purebred (F6) Mini Nubian and her F1 kids.

What's so great about Mini Nubians? Why are they better than standard Nubians or Nigerian Dwarf goats?

The advantages to Mini Nubians are that they produce milk similar in butterfat content to Nigerian Dwarfs, but more of it. (Butterfat is what makes milk sweet and creamy.) Many of them produce as much milk as standard-sized Nubians. They are also taller than Nigerians and usually have bigger teats, making them easier to milk.

Weighing on average 100 lbs (bucks weigh a bit more) and standing 23-29" tall for does and up to 31" for bucks, they are smaller than standard Nubians, making them easier to handle and transport. (We transport ours in a large dog crate in our minivan.)

They are ideal-sized goats for small farms and homesteads and are easily handled by women and children. They cost less to feed than standard Nubians, making them very fuel-efficient dairy goats, or as most Mini Nubian lovers call them, the Goldilocks goats!

Jardine Meadows Jessie's udder - F1 Mini Nubian doe

What are the generations of Mini Nubian, and what does it all mean?

Mini Nubians are registered in generations from F1 to F6 and beyond. F1s and F2s are registered in the "Experimental" herdbook. F3s to F5s will be registered as "American" if they meet the standard for that herdbook. Technically F6 and up are considered "Purebred," but if a goat doesn't meet the standard to be considered Purebred (Could be too big, ears too short, etc.), it might be put back in a lower herdbook.

Understanding the generations is where most newcomers need clarification. An F1 is a first-generation cross between a Nigerian buck and a Nubian doe. But it's also the cross between a Mini Nubian buck of ANY generation and a standard-sized doe. And there are numerous ways to go "up the generations" to get to purebred status. And numerous reasons why doing that doesn't really matter, but we'll discuss that later.

In theory, you would breed two F1s and get F2s and two F2s and get F3s, and so on and so on. In reality, no one does it that way, and that's NOT the best way to produce quality goats.

You don't want to focus too much on generations but on getting the whole package right. Correct conformation, fantastic udders, and good milk production should come first, breed character and proper size next, and worry about generations last, if at all. The generations are more of a way to track the goats but don't indicate quality.

For now, the easiest way to know what generation your kids will be is to know that the kid is always one generation higher than the LOWEST parent, with standard Nubians and Nigerian Dwarfs being 0 generations. So F1 x F6 = F2. F2 x F2 = F3 but F2 x F5 also equals F3. And so on.

How do I breed Mini Nubians? Where do I start?

To start a new line of Mini Nubians, you should begin with a registered Nigerian Dwarf buck and a registered Nubian doe. You breed those two goats together, and their kids would be eligible for registration as F1 Mini Nubians. These kids usually have airplane ears and straight noses and look more like large Nigerians than Nubians. But don't worry; you will fix the breed character in successive generations!

Of course, many already established Mini Nubians lines are out there, and you only have to start a new line if you want to. You can use two Mini Nubians goats to produce more Mini Nubians.

Or you can breed a Mini Nubian buck to a standard Nubian doe to get first-generation Mini Nubians. These F1 Mini Nubians will likely have much better breed character (Look like Nubians) than the Nigerian/standard Nubian crosses but they will probably be a bit on the larger size than is ideal. But that's ok because you can bring the size down through successive generations.

Urban Acres RB Cassia - standard Nubian doe

Miracle Kids AD King and Country - Nigerian Dwarf buck

What is the difference between conformation and breed character, and where does breed character fit into breeding Mini Nubians?

Conformation means the structure of the goat - how all the parts fit together. Proper conformation is the same for all dairy goats, with a few minor exceptions that fall under the breed character category. Breed character means what makes Mini Nubians look like standard Nubians (only smaller) - long, floppy ears and Roman noses, primarily.

Lower generation Experimentals (F1-F2) with a lot of Nigerian blood (like the spotted, 50/50 cross in the photo below) usually have airplane or 2/3 drop ears and look like oversized, funny-looking Nigerian Dwarfs. In contrast, Experimentals with more Nubian blood (such as from standard Nubian does bred to Mini Nubian bucks, like the tan doe in the photo below) usually have excellent breed character but could be on the larger size. In the experimental herdbook, these traits are considered acceptable, even to be expected.

Once the goats get into the American herdbook, they should begin to look like standard Nubians, only smaller, with the adorable floppy ears and Roman noses we all associate with Nubians. Once they reach Purebred status, they should look like miniature versions of their larger cousins! If they are oversized or don't have good breed character, they may be moved back to the American herdbook, no matter what their "F" number is.

All generations of Mini Nubian come in a wide variety of colors and coat patterns, including moonspots, and any generation can have blue eyes (or brown) because of the Nigerian influence. And all are beautiful, intelligent, affectionate, and have wonderful and unique personalities.

Terjana Hermia - F1 Mini Nubian doe

Blackberry's BSN Lavender - F1 Mini Nubian doe

So what is the best generation for me? Does it matter what generation I get if I want to milk, show, or have family pets?

This part confuses most people who are new to Mini Nubians. They often believe that the generations matter most, and the higher, the better. The real answer is that F generations don't matter at all. Before you worry about the Fs, you want to focus on finding or breeding goats with good conformation, quality udders, excellent milk production, etc.

A lower generation goat can be better quality in the areas that matter than a higher generation goat. It just depends on the goat. Some awful-looking higher-generation goats are out there - poor udders, bad conformation, poor breed character, and low milk production. And there are some fantastic lower-generation goats out there. It's more about the genetics you started with and how well they combined to produce the next generation than the "F" number. Better to start with animals that are structurally sound and have the essential traits that matter first than to get hung up on breeding by the numbers.

In the higher generations, you do want to see goats with good breed character (and in the correct size range), but in reality, breed character only matters if you prefer the more Nubian-looking goats. Some people prefer airplane ears or don't care about breed characters. They just want structurally sound, quality goats. But if you love the traditional Nubian look, buy or breed that type of Mini Nubian.

But also understand that traits like ears and noses are the easiest to improve in one generation. In contrast, structural issues, udders, and milk production can take more generations to improve. If you focus too much on breed character without getting the basic structure right, you could end up with poor-quality goats. So if you want a quality herd, you should focus on those more important things first, taking time to improve traits as you go.

Most of all, don't think of it as a numbers game, and don't focus on the numbers just for their sake. That's how you can end up with poor-quality goats. An F6 or F7 with an awful udder, low milk production, bad conformation, or poor breed character is not an asset to your herd. When a goat reaches F6, it should be near perfect. Only then does the "F" mean anything.

But in reality, many of my most perfect goats of all time are or were lower generations. My favorite and most excellent doe I've ever had was Jessie, who I lost in 2022 after a complicated kidding. Jessie was only an F4, but I would not have traded her for any goat in my herd or anywhere. She was as close to perfection as possible.

Jardine Meadows Jessie F4 Mini Nubian doe

The F's don't matter when making breeding decisions or deciding who to keep. I match my does with whatever buck will give me the desired traits I want to see in her kids. I usually have to think about it to remember their numbers.

If you want to buy or breed Mini Nubians, you should forget the F's and pick the goats you like the best for other reasons. Choose the goats you feel will help you reach your goals, and the goats you like, not the goats someone tells you you "should" choose. Remember that breeding goats is as much art as math or science. And that the goal is to have fun!

At Prancing Pony Farm, we breed Mini Nubians from first-generation Experimental to 6th generation Purebred and beyond, all registered with MDGA and some with TMGR. Our goats come from strong dairy lines, and we breed for excellent milk production, sound udders, correct conformation, wonderful temperaments, and beautiful colors and patterns. We strongly believe that a great dairy goat should be beautiful, sweet, functional, and sound and be a joy to own. It should make you happy to see it in your pasture, and spending time with it should be rewarding. Producing that type of animal is our goal in breeding our Mini Nubians. If you are looking for this type of goat you can fill out our Goat Questionnaire and reserve a couple of Prancing Pony Mini Nubians today!

Happy Goat Farm Simba with a 2023 Mini Nubian kid

Prancing Pony Maremma Puppy and Mini Nubians

Reserve Your Goats!

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Even Our Maremma Puppies Agree That Our Customers are the Best! And Repeat Customers are Even Better!

5/16/2023

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Jessica is a repeat customer who has bought several goats from us over the last few years. This year she decided to add a new Mini Nubian herdsire, a new doe and a bottle baby wether companion for the buckling. I always enjoy when Jessica visits. She’s such a fun person to talk to. Apparently my Maremma puppies agree. 💜 And just look at this adorable little trailer she had made for transporting goats. It's an old style 2 horse trailer cut down and with goat pens added inside. Oh boy do I need one of these!

If you’re looking for some new goat friends or Maremma puppies let us know. We have lots of lovely goats and pups, and we love meeting fellow animal lovers! If you come to pick up goats our pups love to say hello and if you come to pick up puppies our goats will also want to meet you. Or you can always come for goats AND puppies!

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Spring Means Baby Goat Pick-up Time!

5/16/2023

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Late spring is always an exciting time as families come to pick up goats they reserved sometimes months ago. We even often get return customers who have bought goats from us in the past. Goats are like potato chips; they're addicting! Whether they are buying a new breeding buck or doe or just some fun pet wethers, there are alway many happy smiles from our customers!

Don't miss out on your smile inducing baby goat pick-up day! The fun won't last long!

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Our Goats Turn Tears of Sorrow into Smiles of Joy

5/16/2023

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A couple of months ago Linda contacted me to tell me that she had recently lost her teenaged dairy goat wether, Rodney, who had been a longtime companion for her mini donkey. Both Linda and her donkey were very sad over the loss of Rodney. She wanted a new goat to heal their broken hearts, and after discussing it with me, decided that two new goats would be even better. Here she is with her daughter and two of her adorable grandkids, picking up their new pets.

We occasionally get people who have suddenly lost a beloved goat or other pet, and are looking for a new one to fill the void and help heal their aching hearts. Having experienced loss the of beloved animals myself many times, I understand how painful it is. It’s one of my greatest honor’s to help people like Linda. I love that my goats and puppies can bring smiles like this back to people’s faces. This is what my business all about!

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Fifteen Questions to Help You Find The Best Maremma Sheepdog Breeder

5/11/2023

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So you've decided you need a Livestock Guardian Dog and that the Maremma Sheepdog is the best breed for your needs. You love the idea of rescuing dogs but feel that entrusting your valuable and beloved livestock to a dog with an unknown history is too risky. You've looked around on Craigslist and a few Facebook "Livestock Guardian Dogs For Sale" groups. Still, those seem even more dangerous than adopting a dog. After all, there are a lot of "big white" Livestock Guardian Dog breeds. How do you know if the dogs on these venues are indeed Maremmas, much less if they are healthy and have had the proper early socialization and training puppies need to mature into trustworthy LGDs?

The best way to ensure you get the dog you need is to buy from a breeder of registered Maremmas. However, finding a breeder you can trust is another matter entirely.

And you have so many questions! Where do you find a Maremma Sheepdog breeder? How do you know if a breeder is reputable and trustworthy? What traits should you look for in a Maremma Sheepdog puppy? Is health testing necessary for Maremmas? How much does a Maremma Sheepdog cost? Where do you even start? Don't worry; we have the answers to all those questions and more!

You might first google "Maremma Sheepdog breeders near me" or "Maremma Sheepdog puppies for sale" or similar terms. Doing so is likely to turn up anything from the websites of breeders to links to social media pages and posts on Facebook Livestock Guardian Dog groups. Since Maremmas are not an AKC-recognized breed, you can't go to the AKC Marketplace like you can for some of the more common Livestock Guardian Dog breeds like Great Pyrenees or Anatolian Shepherds.

The Maremma Sheepdog Club of America registers Maremmas in the United States. You could visit the MSCA website and check their breeder listing and ads. But are all breeders listed on the MSCA website reputable? Maybe. Or maybe not.

Make sure you read the disclaimer at the bottom of the MSCA Breeder Listing page:

"Disclaimers: The Maremma Sheepdog Club of America (MSCA) does not guarantee the services or dogs obtained from any breeder, nor does the MSCA assume any responsibility or liability regarding any agreements you may enter into with any breeder. The MSCA does not recommend, guarantee, rate, or endorse any breeder or their stock. Buyers should check all matters relating to registration, health, and quality before purchasing any dog.

The MSCA does not guarantee or accept any responsibility or liability of any kind for the quality, health, or temperament of any dog purchased from breeders on this list, nor for the warranty, guarantee, integrity, honesty, reliability expressed or implied by any MSCA member included on this list.

The MSCA is not liable for individual breeders' adherence to the MSCA Code of Ethics. Any potential buyers must ask pertinent questions of the breeder to discern their responsibility as breeders, especially as it relates to OFA and/or PennHIP certifications and ratings."

So while the MSCA breeder listing might help you find breeders, it will not help you discern which breeders you can trust, even if they are Code of Ethics breeders.

Finding breeders is one thing. Discerning if a breeder is reputable, ethical, and breeding high-quality dogs is another matter. So how do you tell a reputable Maremma Sheepdog breeder from an unethical one? Begin by asking yourself the following questions:

1) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder focus on selling "affordable" dogs?
Here's where we answer the burning question, "How much does a Maremma Sheepdog cost?" The answer is it depends on what the buyer and the breeder value. There are breeders out there, even Code of Ethics breeders, who emphasize providing "affordable" dogs to people. They claim that farmers can't afford expensive dogs, and maybe in some cases, that's true, but in reality, what someone can or can't "afford" has more to do with what they value than how much they make.

We all have things we spend money on that others think are frivolous. And in an age when a "Doodle" or your average lap dog is $3000-5000, I don't believe that high quality, well-socialized registered Maremma puppies out of proven working, health-tested parents that will grow up to be responsible for the very lives of the farmer's other animals aren't worth at least as much as these fancy pet dogs.

I have no problem with doodles or lap dogs. I am highlighting the disparity in our thinking when such dogs are seen as more valuable than well-bred working dogs that will fulfill a crucial role. As breeders, let's aim higher. We are ethically responsible for raising the bar for the breed we claim to love.

The push for "affordable" registered Maremmas primarily comes from lazy, irresponsible, and apathetic breeders. Breeding and properly starting quality working Maremma puppies takes a lot of money and a lot of hard work. The cost of puppy food alone, as well as food for the parents, is out of this world. Then there's health testing for the parents before you even breed them. There are vet bills, vaccines, external and internal parasite prevention, microchips, grooming expenses, and other supplies. It adds up so fast!

And caring for and raising puppies, while very rewarding, is a lot of work. Puppies and parents need to be fed and groomed. Pups must be dewormed, vaccinated, weighed, cleaned, and sometimes bottle-fed if the litter is large. The whelping box must be changed daily, which means lots of laundry. And once mom stops cleaning up the puppy poop, guess whose job it is?! Puppies must be socialized with livestock while keeping safe from hooves, beaks, extreme temperatures, and bad weather. They also need to be socialized with humans and encounter as many novel experiences as possible so that they mature into safe, stable, resilient dogs instead of feral creatures.

So how does a breeder produce "affordable" pups while doing all of the above? They don't. Instead, they cut corners and make compromises. Health testing? Too expensive! We'll skip that, and if the puppy ends up with Hip Dysplasia, we'll blame the owner. We weren't planning to give a health guarantee, anyway.

Quality dog food? No, we'll buy one of those cheap, inferior brands instead. And make sure not to "overfeed" the pups or mom. A cozy whelping box with interchangeable pads that we'll need to change and wash daily? More work. How about a bare kiddie pool in a cold garage? No blanket is necessary. Just hose it out as needed. Never mind that the slick plastic is not only cold but could do lasting damage to the puppies' joints. Efficiency is what matters.

Or whelp the puppies in the barn, no matter the time of year. Throw a little hay in a corner of the sheep or goat pen. Half the pups die of exposure or heat stroke or are stepped on by livestock, but that's an "acceptable" loss for breeders who prioritize "affordable" over other things.

Toys, treats, and enrichment activities? More expensive and requires more work. We'll skip all that in the name of "not making pets out of the pups ."Yep, that sounds like a good excuse for neglect.

Are we socializing puppies with livestock? That's too much work for the profit-driven, irresponsible breeder. It would be easier to keep them locked in the garage, patio, small kennel, or a stall in the barn. But minimal effort and work are what matters. We're just warehousing them until they are weaned and ready to go home. And ASAP!

And that is how you raise "affordable" pups! Granted, not every breeder of "affordable" puppies cuts every corner mentioned. But they all cut some of them and others not listed. They all make sacrifices to produce pups with minimal effort and expense. And the puppies, their future owners, and the livestock they are supposed to protect all too often pay the price. And the breed as a whole pays the price since these breeders perpetuate practices that aren't in the breed's best interest.

If "affordable pups" matters most to you, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding that. But if high-quality, well-bred, correctly socialized, and healthy pups are what you're looking for, then read on to learn to read between the lines and pick the right breeder.

2) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder have a Breeding Program, or do they breed dogs? And if they do have a Breeding Program, is their program in line with your needs and values?
There is a very distinct and essential difference between "breeding dogs" and having a breeding program. Someone who "breeds dogs" is usually in it strictly for the money and is not committed to doing everything they can to best serve their dogs, clients, or breed. A "Breeding Program" is carefully thought out with specific goals and carried out intentionally to achieve those goals. These goals may or may not align with what you are looking for but understanding the difference and learning about the breeder's "program" as a whole, instead of just about their available puppies, will help you decide if they are the breeder for you. Not every breeder is suitable for every potential puppy owner. Understanding the breeder's goals and values and how they align with yours is the most critical step in choosing a breeder.

3) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder have any expertise, training, and experience in their field?
How long has the breeder been breeding Maremmas? Have they bred any other breeds? Has the breeder taken any professional courses like dog training, behavior, or puppy socialization courses? Have they worked in dog-related professions, such as dog grooming or veterinary medicine? Do they run a working farm or ranch raising one or more livestock species or only have a few pet animals? Or do they even have any livestock at all? (A breeder with no livestock should not be breeding working LGDs. Puppies have critical socialization windows in the first weeks and must be exposed to livestock before this window closes.) Everyone has to start somewhere, but the more experience a breeder has as a dog breeder, livestock producer, or in another capacity working with animals in general and dogs in particular (especially Livestock Guardian Dogs), the better. After all, a breeder needs to be able to support their puppy owners as they raise and train their pups. A breeder can only help people with enough education and experience to draw from.

4) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder have a website, and if so, is it relevant and up to date?
Ok, this might seem like a strange question but hear me out. Very few reputable businesses these days operate without a website. A website is the most crucial marketing tool for any business owner and the people the business serves. According to Forbes.com, "every business needs a website". A well-built and up-to-date website builds credibility, showcases a company's brand (who they are and what they stand for), streamlines customer service, and so much more. A breeder who can't be bothered to build a website is not very committed to their dogs or clients. They are likely "just breeding dogs," not running a well-thought-out and intentional breeding program.

And if they have a website but you still need help finding information on available puppies, photos, pedigrees, and health test results of the parents, you are unlikely to receive good customer service before or after the sale. It may be just me, but having a relevant and up-to-date website separates professionals from amateurs in any field.

5) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder have a good social media following?
A breeder's website is always first and foremost in building credibility but being active on social media also shows their commitment to educating and supporting their clients and anyone interested in the breed. Businesses engage their customers and like-minded individuals on many social media platforms. Breeders are busy doing the work it takes to run their businesses, raise quality dogs, and meet the needs of their clients, so expecting them to be active on every social media platform is unreasonable. But if they have business accounts on one or two platforms, such as Facebook and Instagram, and they are reasonably active there, as well as some breed or species-relevant groups, then checking out their posts can give you a feel for who they are, what they stand for and how much credibility they have with their audience. Their audience should include clients who have bought puppies from them. If a breeder gets little to no client engagement, that's a red flag.

6) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder use their website and social media platforms to educate, encourage and inspire others interested in the breed?
Time is always at a premium when breeding dogs and running a farm. Still, most passionate and dedicated breeders will find time to reach out to others. A reputable Maremma Sheepdog breeder cares about more than just selling puppies. They are advocates for the breed and the people who love these dogs as much as they do. They write blog posts and website pages to help others with their dogs, no matter where they acquired them. They share links to products they find helpful on their website. They post fun and educational content on their own and from other sources on their social media accounts. They always think about how something they could share might bless Maremmas and their owners and make time to do so whenever possible.

7) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder use their dogs to actively guard livestock?
This one is crucial. You would be surprised how many people decide to breed Livestock Guardian Dogs but don't use their dogs as Livestock Guardians. This practice has been popular with breeds like Great Pyrenees for years, where they are often bred exclusively for the show or pet market. One of the reasons Maremmas are such great Livestock Guardian Dogs is that they have yet to be overbred for the pet/show market. Therefore they retain more of their working instinct. However, some disreputable breeders are attracted to the "rarity" of the Maremma Sheepdog breed and breed solely for profit and "bragging rights ."Usually, they have a "farm." but it's more of a fancy estate in a "horsey subdivision" than an actual working farm or homestead. At most, they may own a few chickens, a horse, a mini cow, or some pet sheep.

Photos of their dogs and puppies with livestock will be very sparse if there are any at all. This lack of photos isn't because they are too busy to take pictures. It's because their dogs and puppies don't live with the livestock but are pets who spend most of their time lounging around the pool or sleeping on the patio. Their dogs may be beautiful, well-bred, and health tested, but they aren't Livestock Guardians. They may deter predators by their mere presence. Still, a Livestock Guardian Dog that doesn't live WITH livestock is an Estate Guardian, not an LGD.

And if the dogs don't live with the stock, you should ask yourself and the breeder two crucial questions. Why don't the dogs live with the livestock? (Probably because they aren't trustworthy with stock.) And how can dogs who don't live with livestock train their puppies to be Livestock Guardian Dogs?

And bonus question - how can a breeder who doesn't know how to train their adult dogs to live safely with livestock possibly train their puppies to do so?

I once had a breeder tell me that most of her puppies go to fancy estates to "keep coyotes from pooping on the lawns" and to "guard trees" in wealthy people's orchards. Based on what I observed, that is how she uses her dogs. That might be ok if these breeders limited themselves to selling puppies only to people who need to use their dogs how they do. But they don't. They also sell pups to unsuspecting real farmers who need a dog who will be safe and reliable with delicate stock like goats and chickens. And when that proud new puppy owner brings home one of these "estate guardian" puppies, they may find that turning that puppy into a safe, reliable Livestock Guardian Dog is challenging, if not downright impossible.

If you need a beautiful dog to guard your swimming pool, buy from one of these "estate guardian" breeders. But if you need your dog to protect your chickens and goats instead of eating them, I advise you to keep looking. Otherwise, you may eventually need to replace your dog and some of your livestock.

8) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder have proven working genetics in their program and a way to track their dogs? Is this information readily accessible to potential buyers?
This is where a website is invaluable in helping potential buyers do their research. Ideally, you will see a page for each breeding dog on the breeder's website, with registered names listed and photos, pedigrees, and health testing information. Then you should see litter pages with the parents listed, links to their pages, and pictures and information on the puppies.

I'd want as much information about the breeder's program as possible. How they socialize and care for their puppies, what kind of livestock their dogs guard, their sales and visitor policies, their training style, information on shipping, testimonials from clients, and more.

And most important of all - you should see lots and lots of photos and videos of the parent dogs and the puppies living with livestock. A breeder with little to no photos of their dogs and puppies with stock is a huge red flag. Everyone has a camera in their pocket these days. It's built into their phone. There's no excuse for any breeder not to have photographic evidence that their dogs and puppies live with livestock unless they don't.

You may be new to all this, and it may be overwhelming, but having the information readily available on a website is much better than getting a disorganized breeder to text or email all of this information to you. A conscientious breeder will happily answer your questions and share whatever information you need to decide whether their breeding program is for you.

If they don't have a website, they should be prompt in providing the information and documents you need. If the breeder is reluctant to answer questions or if getting documents like pedigrees and health test results is difficult, then they are probably not trustworthy.

9) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder provide any Health Testing for their breeding dogs?
This one is a major red flag if the answer is no. Genetic defects can be devastating in any dog, especially in working Livestock Guardian Dogs. Without a doubt, the most common and most problematic is Hip Dysplasia. Maremmas are considered a giant breed, and giant breeds are more at risk for hip dysplasia because of their size and rapid growth rate. Livestock Guardian Dogs are hardworking dogs who often patrol rough terrain and must be ready to act immediately. A dog suffering from arthritis caused by Hip Dysplasia can't effectively do their jobs. This condition causes debilitating pain for the dog and puts the livestock at risk.

Many factors contribute to Hip Dysplasia, including diet and exercise while the puppy grows, as well as injuries and other factors that cause stress on the joints. Even parents with excellent hips can produce puppies with hip dysplasia. Screening of the parents is not a guarantee your puppy won't have problems but it is the first and most crucial step in minimizing risk. All breeding stock should be screened through either PennHip or OFA and only dogs with scores that are above average for the breed should be bred. If you know more about the other dogs in the pedigree or related dogs and they score well overall, that's even better. Knowledge is power, truly.

What's not ok is a breeder not testing their breeding dogs and simply telling you their dogs "have good hips ."You can only know for sure with the proper diagnostic tests, and if a breeder tells you this, they are lying. Most likely, they have bad hips in their line and don't want to admit it, or they don't want to spend the money and care more about profits than breeding healthy dogs.

You may think you can save money by buying these cheaper dogs, but it could be costly in the long run. The costs of vet bills, pain medications, and expensive surgeries will far outweigh any savings you may have made on buying an "affordable puppy ."Your dog could become so debilitated that it can't work, necessitating the purchase of a replacement dog or putting your livestock at risk. And sadly, some dogs are so crippled by this horrible condition that they must be put down, which is a heartbreaking and devastating experience.

Do you want to be the one to watch your puppy suffer in pain from crippling arthritis before she's even grown? Do you want to have to put that poor, sweet dog down to spare her a lifetime of agony? It happens more than you think because greedy, unethical breeders value profits over what's best for the dogs, their potential owners, and the breed as a whole. So do yourself a favor and don't buy potential heartache. And do the right thing for the breed and everyone else who loves and depends on these dogs by not enabling these disreputable breeders.

Other health tests are helpful in making breeding decisions, such as testing for elbow dysplasia and DNA screenings. A breeder doing these tests is a bonus, but beware of a sneaky trend. Many breeders do only DNA testing but no screening for Hip Dysplasia whatsoever. The reason for this is pure deception. A DNA test is under $200 and it takes a minute to swab the dog's cheek. A screening for Hip Dysplasia, through OFA or PennHip, costs on average $400-1000 and requires a trip to the vet (sometimes a specialist).

Disreputable breeders will do the DNA test and advertise their dogs as "health tested" when they have not tested for the most critical condition a Livestock Guardian Dog is at risk for and the one most likely to affect its ability to do its job. I would not trust such a shady breeder who would use this premeditated and shameful deception.

10) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder offer a 2-year health guarantee?
Hand in hand with health testing, a sign of a reputable breeder is a Health Guarantee, preferably covering the first two years of the puppy's life. Shockingly the MSCA Code of Ethics doesn't require breeders to provide a Health Guarantee of any kind. It only requires a contract, and there are no guidelines on what should be included.

I didn't realize this when I first purchased my breeding dogs, nor did I understand the importance of a health guarantee. I bought dogs from 5 different Code of Ethics breeders, and only two provided health guarantees. I was fortunate that none of my dogs had any health issues.

Still, I know of people who bought dogs from such breeders and were not so lucky when their dogs were diagnosed with severe Hip Dysplasia at an early age, even under a year old. I've heard similar stories with other breeds. When the owners returned to these breeders seeking help, the breeders accused the owners of causing the problem (despite veterinary evidence) and refused to give any compensation. The buyers had no recourse. They were left with a debilitated dog in constant pain that couldn't do their jobs and ongoing vet bills. And no protection for their stock.

Of course, by the time the problem was discovered, they loved their dogs too much to give them up, so they had to purchase another dog to guard their livestock while also paying expensive vet bills to try to help the dog, who is now basically a companion dog. So much for saving money on "affordable" puppies. The price of an "affordable" dog is very high, indeed.

Now that I know better, I would only buy a puppy with a 2-year health guarantee again and with a complete understanding of the warranty terms. You might save some money by purchasing an "affordable" puppy, but it could cost you more money and much heartache in the long run. A 2 year health guarantee is there to protect the buyer if, despite all the breeder's efforts to prevent it, health problems do occur. Think of the health guarantee as insurance. You hope you'll never need it, but you sure want it to be there if you do.

Breeding Livestock Guardian dogs is expensive. Dog food alone is a considerable expense. Breeders who sell puppies cheaply must cut corners to make ends meet. Even some Code of Ethics breeders prioritize "affordable" dogs over essential things like health guarantees. It's the buyer who loses every time. And the puppies.

11) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder offer a contract?
A contract protects both the buyer and the breeder, and most of all, the puppy. All reputable breeders should provide a written contract with clearly laid out terms. The breeder and the buyer should sign the contract before the puppy goes to its new home.

Ideally, the breeder has a sample of their contract posted on their website so that the buyer can read it before reserving their puppy. Then the contract is updated with all the puppy and buyer's info before signing. The Code of Ethics has no contract standard, and non-COE breeders aren't even required to use a contract.

Based on the dogs I bought from other breeders, I have seen everything from over-the-top ridiculous contracts with threats and "thou shall not"s to equally ridiculously vague and incoherent ones. I try hard to make my contract fair and straightforward, protecting the buyer, myself as a breeder, and the puppy. I regularly evaluate my contract and rewrite it if I need to.

12) Does the Maremma Sheepdog breeder socialize their puppies with livestock from a very early age?
I have entire blog posts written about this topic, which I feel very strongly about. I won't go in-depth about the subject, other than to say if the breeder doesn't have their puppies near livestock by at least three weeks (preferably sooner) and living full time with at least a few gentle goats or sheep and maybe some chickens by a minimum of 5 weeks old then that puppy will never live up to their full potential as Livestock Guardian Dogs.

Puppies have critical socialization periods in the first weeks. They must encounter what you want them to be comfortable with to get the most benefit from these periods. And for Livestock Guardian Dogs, socialization with livestock during this time is crucial. If puppies are deprived of livestock past about eight weeks of age, they will be adversely affected for life. For more information on this topic, please read the following pages and posts:

13) What is the breeder's socialization and training program for the puppies beyond livestock training?
Socialization with livestock is only part of what is needed to turn puppies into successful, well-rounded LGDs. Puppies also need positive interactions with humans, including children, during their early weeks and exposure to various sights, sounds, and experiences. Puppies deprived of these experiences can become fearful or even aggressive dogs that are difficult to manage and dangerous to handle.

Likewise, puppies should be trained with only positive and humane training methods. In their position statement on humane dog training, The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) states, "Evidence supports the use of reward based methods for all canine training. AVSAB promotes interactions with animals based on compassion, respect, and scientific evidence. Based on these factors, reward-based learning offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare. Research supports the efficacy of reward-based training to address unwanted and challenging behaviors. There is no evidence that aversive training is necessary for dog training or behavior modification."

Experts agree and science has proven that dogs learn best through positive reinforcement. Aversive training methods reduce learning and can adversely affect the dog's trust in humans. Breeders who rely on force, punishment, and control to manage their puppies or who advocate that their puppy owners do so could be causing irreparable harm to the dogs.

14) Does the breeder provide lifetime support for the puppy and their owner?
The breeder should always be the first source of advice and encouragement for any puppy owner, particularly concerning training and management. Sadly many breeders give little to no support to their customers once the puppy leaves their possession. This forces puppy owners to seek other sources for advice. There are few good books or other reliable sources of information on managing and training LGDs, so puppy owners often turn to social media for help. Most of these groups are full of misinformation and very harmful recommendations given by people without real training or experience. These groups can cause more harm than good for the puppy and the owner and waste time. It would be better to buy a puppy from a breeder who is willing and able to help their clients than to end up having to figure it out as you go.

15) Does the breeder offer a lifetime return policy on their puppies?
Life doesn't always go as planned. Farms are sold, divorce and deaths happen, and circumstances change. Sadly not everyone can keep their dogs forever, even if they want to. It's stressful enough to deal with a challenging situation without worrying about what will happen to the dog.

An unethical breeder refuses to help their puppies or owners. They would prefer those dogs end up in a rescue situation than step in and help. Profits and convenience drive them. Taking back dogs is neither profitable nor convenient.

Ethical breeders believe they are responsible for the dogs they bring into this world for life. They support their puppies and owners, even if some dogs need to return to them. If a breeder isn't willing to provide that commitment, they should not be breeding dogs.

So what will you do? What kind of breeder will you choose to buy from?
You can save money and buy an "affordable puppy" from a breeder who cuts corners in the name of profits and quick sales. If you're lucky, things might work out ok. Or there could be lasting repercussions. Only time will tell.

Or you can invest in a puppy from a breeder who checks all the boxes in this article on what to look for in an ethical, responsible, reliable breeder. You can put your trust in a breeder who puts all their resources, time, and money into their breeding program, puppies, and customers. You can select a breeder that will support you and your dog before the sale, after you bring your puppy home, and for the dog's entire life. The choice is yours.

Reserve Your Puppy Now!

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The Ultimate Guide to Keeping Your Livestock Guardian Dogs and Farm Animals Cool this Summer

Provide Adequate Shade

Barns and Other Outbuildings

Other Shade Structures

Easy Homemade Shade Structures

Our Favorite Solution for Fast and easy (But More Costly) Shade

Digging to Keep Cool

Water, the Essential Element for Keeping Animals Cool

Automatic Waterers

Putting it All Together

Electrolytes, Ice Packs and Animal Popcicles

Misting Systems and Fans

Take a Siesta Approach to Life

Grooming Helps Keep Dogs Cooler

Keeping Poultry Cool

Conclusion

If You're In Santa Barbara, Stop By the Zoo and Say Hello to the Four Prancing Pony Farm Zoo Goats!

Does Feeding Alfalfa Hay Cause Urinary Calculi (Kidney Stones) in Goats?

It's Your Dog. There is No One "Right" Way to Raise, Train and Own a Livestock Guardian Dog, Even My Way.

Jess, an Incredible Livestock Guardian Dog whose Life Was Cut Tragically Short by Bloat

The Story of Jess, Beloved LGD and Family Member

What All Dog Owners Need to Know About Bloat or Gastric Dilation-Volvulus

Moving On - Life Without Jess

"We never want to go through this again, and it's a simple procedure to eliminate the risk. ~ Randy

"We miss her and can't believe she's gone." ~ Randy

More Information on Bloat

What Are Mini Nubians and What's So Great About Them?

Even Our Maremma Puppies Agree That Our Customers are the Best! And Repeat Customers are Even Better!

Spring Means Baby Goat Pick-up Time!

Our Goats Turn Tears of Sorrow into Smiles of Joy

Fifteen Questions to Help You Find The Best Maremma Sheepdog Breeder

Author

"Above the arch there was a lamp, and beneath it swung a large signboard: a fat white pony reared up on its hind legs. Over the door was painted in white letters:
The Prancing Pony by Barliman Butterbur."
~ from The Fellowship of the Ring: Being the First Part of The Lord of the Rings.

Categories

Archives

Provide Adequate Shade

Barns and Other Outbuildings

Other Shade Structures

Easy Homemade Shade Structures

Our Favorite Solution for Fast and easy (But More Costly) Shade

Digging to Keep Cool

Water, the Essential Element for Keeping Animals Cool

Automatic Waterers

Putting it All Together

Electrolytes, Ice Packs and Animal Popcicles

Misting Systems and Fans

Take a Siesta Approach to Life

Grooming Helps Keep Dogs Cooler

Keeping Poultry Cool

Conclusion

The Story of Jess, Beloved LGD and Family Member

What All Dog Owners Need to Know About Bloat or Gastric Dilation-Volvulus

Moving On - Life Without Jess

"We never want to go through​ this again, and it's a simple procedure to eliminate the risk. ~ Randy

"We miss her and can't believe she's gone." ~ Randy

More Information on Bloat

Author

​"Above the arch there was a lamp, and beneath it swung a large signboard: a fat white pony reared up on its hind legs. Over the door was painted in white letters:​The Prancing Pony by Barliman Butterbur."~ from The Fellowship of the Ring: Being the First Part of The Lord of the Rings.

"We never want to go through this again, and it's a simple procedure to eliminate the risk. ~ Randy

"Above the arch there was a lamp, and beneath it swung a large signboard: a fat white pony reared up on its hind legs. Over the door was painted in white letters:
The Prancing Pony by Barliman Butterbur."
~ from The Fellowship of the Ring: Being the First Part of The Lord of the Rings.