If it's Mini Nubian or Nigerian Dwarf does or bucks you're interested in (or Nigerian Dwarf wethers), we invite you to make a reservation for kids from our Spring 2025 kidding season, which has already begun. We will be updating the website with photos and information on each kid as they arrive. Your $300 non-refundable reservation fee (per kid) will hold your spot on the reservation list. Reservations will be filled on a first-come, first-served basis. 

To see the available kids go to this page:

Over the last few weeks, I have been slowly building my new website and getting things the way I wanted. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be, and I wish I had done this years ago. In fact, I must say I'm pretty much obsessed with WordPress! In the words of Princess Anna "This is so amazing!!" ​

WordPress will allow me to make my website more helpful than ever to people like you while also decreasing my workload so I have more time to train those adorable Maremma puppies!

I still want to add and tweak things on the new website, but it's time to start working on the blog for that site. That will be a much slower process, but in time I plan to have even more great Maremma content over there as I have here so keep your eye on that site. In the meantime you can always come back to this site to read past posts about Maremma Sheepdogs and Livestock Guardian Dogs.

From now on the new site will be where I post all my Maremma Sheepdog, Livestock Guardian Dog and Dog Training articles, while this site will be only for dairy goat content. (I love WordPress so much that I may eventually move the goat breeding program to a new site over there. But for now they will stay right here.)

I'm going to keep all the original Maremma posts here and keep a few of my Maremma website pages here until the new site starts getting traction. Then eventually I'll remove all the Maremma pages from this site and make this domain (prancingponyfarm.com) only for my dairy goat breeding program and the new website and domain (prancingponymaremmas.com) for all Maremma Sheepdog and Livestock Guardian Dog content.

If you want to find the new blog you can use the button below:

If you're looking for info about my Maremma breeding program go here:

And if you want to be sure you don't miss any of my content on either site sign up for my email list, where I always send out links to all of my new blog posts and other content! See you soon!

These are just a few of the many different dog breeds out there. Only the Shih Tzu was originally bred as a pet.

Maremma Sheepdogs are Different. Or Are They?

Maremma Sheepdog breeders are the most "elitist" group of all Livestock Guardian Dog breeders, with most breeders either refusing to sell to pet homes or refusing to admit that they do it. But yet there are a lot of Maremmas in companion homes, so someone is selling these puppies as pets. Whether that's good or bad it is happening and I believe that in order for these dogs and their families to thrive reputable breeders need to step up and take responsibility for their choices. If a breeder truly believes that Maremmas shouldn't be kept as pets then fine, don't sell your puppies as pets. That's your choice. But if you're going to do it at least be honest about it, and make sure you know how to support your puppy owners, whatever role their dogs fill.

As a Maremma breeder who works hard to ensure my puppies are well-suited to fill roles as Livestock Guardian Dogs (My pups recieve the same livestock socialization, even they end up in pet homes.) I believe there are many Maremma breeders that would better serve the breed and their clients if they felt free to breed for companion homes only. Most of the Maremma breeders in America do a very poor job of socializing their puppies as LGDs and an equally poor job of supporting their puppy owners in the ongoing training of their dogs. In truth a lot of their puppies go to pet homes, but since they don't feel free to admit this publicly, they also sell to working homes. And many of these puppies fail miserably as LGDs, and end up in rescue situations. But yet these breeders don't want to give up the breed they love. And why should they, if they are good at raising high quality, healthy companion Maremmas? If these breeders felt confident enough to admit they are breeding companions and to concentrate on the market they are good at maybe the breed as a whole would be better off. "Farming" is different than it was when Maremmas were first brought to America. Maybe it's time to embrace change. 

Motives for the "LGDs Can't be Pets" Mantra

Some people who believe Maremma Sheepdogs and other Livestock Guardian Dogs should never be kept as pets truly care about the dogs and believe they are doing what's best for them. Those I can sympathize with because they mean well, even if they are wrong. But a lot of the people spouting these opinions are just arrogant, elitist snobs who like having something only certain people can have. They like the power trip of deciding who "qualifies" and who doesn't, often denying even working homes who really do need an LGD for arbitrary reasons. (Their acreage is "too small", they don't have "enough" livestock, they are "treating their dogs like pets", etc.) Only these people know their true motives, but it's my opinion that anyone who makes blanket statements for everyone, without taking individual people, their circumstances and commitment to the dogs into consideration is probably in the latter category. And I have no respect for people like that.

I am NOT saying that keeping a Maremma or other Livestock Guardian Dog as a pet is for everyone. Absolutely not. There are good reasons to own a companion Maremma, and bad reasons. But the same can be said of working Maremmas. Even a working Livestock Guardian Dog can only be a good fit if people have realistic expectations of the breed. So that is the real issue. Ensuring that people understand the breed and accept the dogs as they are, regardless of the role they are to fill.

My History with Dogs (and Goats and Horses)

When I was a child growing up in Memphis, Tennessee, my family owned many different breeds of dogs, most acquired at the local dog pound or picked up as strays by my dad on his route as an Exxon truck driver. I adored dogs from a very early age. My favorite book was the AKC Complete Dog Book, which I poured over constantly, dreaming about all the different breeds of dogs I might own someday.

I began working at a local dog grooming shop when I was 14. There were no grooming schools back then. You learned the old-fashioned way. By getting someone to hire you and teach you. I was a very shy kid but I loved animals so one day I was brave enough to walk into a grooming shop and ask for a job sweeping up dog hair. The owner of the shop, whose name was Laura, said she would hire me to bathe and blow dry dogs instead. I started out working Saturdays, all day long, for $15 a day. I thought I was rich! And I loved it. A real job working with dogs and cats was a step up from babysitting. Eventually Laura taught me to groom dogs and I worked for her until I moved to Florida to get married at 19.

Laura helped me get started breeding Cocker Spaniels. And she introduced me to the Arabian horses she bred and trained. It was my lifelong dream to own my own horse. (A dream my parents always said no to.) My job and association with Laura helped me achieve that dream. My fist horse was an Arabian gelding named Imageatiq, that she had in training, who I bought and paid all expenses for with money from my grooming job. I have owned and loved Arabs ever since. She also helped me find my second horse, an Arabian mare named Opel that I owned from the time she was two until she died at age 31. Then she let me breed Opel (for free) to her amazing Khemosabi son, KNA Khriterion, resulting in my beloved gelding Kharney, whom my family owned until he died tragically at age 20 from pigeon fever.

​I also got my first goat from Laura, a Nubian buckling I named Squaka. And my second goat, a part Nubian doe named Sasha. (Both of them came from a goat dairy.) That started my love of goats and my path to breeding Mini Nubians. I will forever be grateful that Laura took a chance on a shy kid and started me down the path that landed me where I am today as a dog and goat breeder and business owner. And that she connected me with my first three horses, that I loved so much (And two that were also beloved by my family.)

The Way it Was Before the New "Experts" Came on the Scene

Way back in the 80s many breeds came into the shop on a regular basis that you don't often see nowadays: Afghan Hounds, Old English Sheepdogs, Bouvier des Flanders, Keeshonds, Shetland Sheepdogs, etc.  Dog breeds go in and out of fashion just like any other fad. I learned about the differences in dog breeds first hand by grooming so many of them. I learned which ones made "good" pets and which ones could be tricky, if not outright awful pets for most people. I learned which ones were most likely to bite (not the big ones, usually) and what would cause them to bite. (They all bite for different reasons.) I learned which dogs had nervous temperaments and which were what some people call "stubborn". (Funny I don't remember the LGDs being anything but pleasant to work with.) I saw firsthand what bad breeding practices (especially with "popular" breeds) and bad training can do to a dog, especially in regards to behavior and temperaments.

I once watched a West Highland White Terrier kill a kitten right in front of me, before anyone in the shop could stop it. (This horrifying experience resulted in me fainting, which was so embarrassing.) But Westie's are companion dogs, right? Yes and they are also working dogs, bred to kill small, furry creatures. You can make a terrier into a pet but you can't take the working instinct out of them. I know because I owned a Yorkie for 10 years. I loved her to peieces but she was the most challenging dog I ever owned and I would never want another one. I will take a Maremma as a pet over a Yorkie any day!

Livestock Guardian Dogs as Pets in the 80's

We also saw Livestock Guardian breeds in the shop, including Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherds, and Kuvaz. This was my introduction to Livestock Guardian Dogs, long before most of these "LGD Experts" ever met a Maremma Sheepdog or any other LGD Livestock Guardian Dog breed. 

All these dogs were pets; no one ever thought to say they shouldn't be. If I heard the term "Livestock Guardian Dog,"  back then I don't remember it, because though that's the category these dogs belonged to that's not the role they filled. These were all pets. Every single one of them. I don't think many farmers were bringing their LGDs to the groomer back then.

Working Dogs Versus Pet Dogs

​No one gave much thought to the "jobs" dogs were initially bred to do back then, either. They just found a breed they thought was cool, found a breeder (which wasn't considered "taboo" back then), and bought their dream dog. Good or bad, that's how it was back before the "adopt, don't shop" movement began. And before "experts" started telling people what breeds they should and shouldn't own. Experts who only discovered these breeds decades later. 🙄

Now it is very true that some of these dogs weren't well suited to be pets in some families. Dogs like Afghan Hounds and Old English Sheepdogs (which were very popular back then) have grooming requirements that are way beyond the capabilities of most people to keep up with, even if they bring their dogs to a groomer on a regular basis. And dogs often suffer horribly when they aren't groomed regularly enough. Being forced to torture a dog because it's owner wants "fluffy" brushed out but refuses to brush their "dream dog" between groomings will absolutely convince you that there are a lot of dogs that shouldn't be kept as pets besides Livestock Guardian Dogs. (Once I opened my own grooming shop I refused to brush out badly matted dogs. It's cruel to make a dog pay for the owner's choices.)

Many of the dogs I groomed had temperaments that were just not suited to be kept as pets in many of the homes they ended up in. This often resulted in aggression, nervousness, separation anxiety and all kinds of behavior problems. Many dogs ended up in shelters and put to sleep simply because someone chose a breed they didn't fully understand and weren't prepared for.

The same thing happens today with many types of dogs. That's my point with these "experts" who claim that Livestock Guardian Dogs are a separate class of dog that should never be kept as pets and that all other breeds are "companion dogs" and suitable as pets. If that were true then shelters would only contain Livestock Guardian Dogs that had failed as pets. But of course shelters are full of all kinds of "companion" dogs that failed at being pets. There are also plenty of Livestock Guardian Dogs that "failed" at the job they were bred to do, and the only role some people believe they should do. 

Consider the Source

If some "experts" want to make blanket statements and "rules" about entire groups of dogs and categorize them into "pet" and "companion" that's their choice. But it's entirely possible that this belief of theirs is based in ignorance. How many other breeds of dogs, besides Livestock Guardian Dogs, have they personally owned or worked with in a professional capacity. One? two? Five? If all you've ever really known and worked with is a few breeds then how do you know that "all dogs besides LGDs make good pets and LGDs don't?" Maybe a herding dog is the ideal pet for you, but that doesn't mean it's a better pet than an LGD for someone else.

One thing I learned through my years of grooming is all the breeds I think are cool but would never want as a pet of my own, because they aren't suited to my lifestyle. (I also learned which breeds I really don't care for at all.) That's why it took me so long to find another breed besides Cocker Spaniels that I loved well enough to breed. I owned other breeds, but there are many breeds I chose to just admire but not own, because I knew they would not be good pets for me. 

Teach Don't Preach

That's what it should be like for everyone. People should be able to do their research and decide what dog breed is right for them, based on that research. And dog professionals like breeders and trainers should be willing and able to educate people and help guide them to make the right decision. But deciding for them what dog they can and can't have is arrogant and insulting. 

As a breeder and trainer, I prefer to see every dog and every human as an individual. I strive to make wise decisions about what kind of homes I place my puppies in based on the evidence I see before me and the conversations I have with people who come to me with questions about Maremmas. I perfer to educate people who are interested in keeping a Maremma as a companion and help them decide if that's the right choice for them and for one of my pups. Sometimes it is the right choice and sometimes it isn't. My answer is always "maybe" before it's "yes" or "no" But there was a time when my automatic answer and only answer was "no." I had to go through that time to get where I am today, but I do regret it.

Some of the common popular companion dogs I groomed in the 80's.

My Experience with Maremma Sheepdogs

Fast forward to 2015, when my family and I bought our farm in Lemoore, California. I knew there were a lot of coyotes in the area and that they would pose a danger to the goats and chickens I planned to add to my farm. (Along with the horses I had boarded for over 30 years.) So long before we closed on our house, I began looking into Livestock Guardian Dogs and settled on Maremma Sheepdogs as the perfect breed for us. We brought home Olaf, an unregistered 5-month-old male Maremma puppy, in early 2016. (Olaf's parents were registered but the breeder chose not to register the litter. Later, we added Genevieve, an unregistered female Maremma and her younger sister, Carina. We also kept a puppy named Polar, from Genny and Olaf's 2018 litter.

I was soon head over heels in love with the breed. For the first time, I found a breed I loved as much as Cocker spaniels. There's something awe-inspiring about a dog that would lay down its life to protect another species. I decided to breed them for our farm and others who needed Livestock Guard Dogs. Our first Maremma litter was born in our goat barn in 2017. ​

Titus and Emmett had two happy years together as "brothers" at Camp Pendleton

More Prancing Pony Farm Companion Dogs

There were other companion placements after Mushroom. I kept waiting for problems to arise, but they never did. All of these dogs and their owners made me very proud. And I finally began to realize that knowing that my pups are in loving homes is more important than whether they are guarding livestock or humans. ​

The Proof is in the Dogs

Now that we have had Titus living in our daughter's home and ours and have learned from the experiences of my clients and other companion Maremma owners I've talked to, I've realized how ridiculous this "hot topic" of companion Maremmas is. Maremmas are actually kept successfully as pets in America and other countries, the same as many other working breeds, including all other LGD breeds. There's nothing magical and exotic about them. At the end of the day they are still dogs. 

Sure, there are differences between a Maremma and a lot of other breeds, but many dogs end up in rescue situations because the breed was not well suited to the family. What matters more when choosing a breed is that the potential owner does a thorough job of researching the breed, has a great understanding of the dogs and how they are wired, is committed to working with the dog's innate temperament instead of against it, and that they have outstanding breeder support, just like working LGD owners need. ​

All dogs struggle to some degree in the human world, which is why understanding the origins and traits of all breeds is important. In order to do that you need a Family Dog Mediator, not just a trainer. Luckily for you you've found one - me!

Maremmas like Charlie and Mushroom thrive as companions due to education and research and a partnership between breeder and owner to ensure that the dogs' innate traits are honored and their needs are met.

Five sweet puppies, who went to working homes, only to later lose those homes due to life circumstances.

So Should Maremma Sheepdogs be Kept as Pets? My Answer

So, after all my years of research and experience working with many breeds of dogs and as a breeder who has placed my Maremma puppies in both working and companion homes and who owns a full-time companion Maremma of my own, what is my answer to this question? "It depends."

I know without a shadow of a doubt that Maremmas can thrive in companion homes. I also know that they can fail miserably. But this is true of working homes, as well. It's more complex than working home = success and pet home = failure. The success or failure of companion Maremmas comes down to the same things that ensure the success or failure of working Maremmas:

• A breeder with an outstanding breeding program that produces healthy, well-socialized, resilient puppies, maximizing the chances that they will thrive in a variety of homes and settings.
• A breeder with both the expertise and willingness to support their puppy owners with training, behavior questions, and all other aspects of ownership after the puppy goes home. This breeder support can make or break the dog's success in whatever role it fills. If a breeder doesn't believe their puppies will succeed as pets then chances are they won't.
• An owner who has a thorough understanding of the breed and of their innate temperament and traits, and knows how to work with instead of against these traits to bring out the best in their dog. This part should be explored thoroughly before bringing home a Maremma puppy, regardless of whether is will be a working dog or a pet. Anyone who wants to "train" the natural traits out of any breed should not own that breed, for any purpose.

Conclusion

If you have those three things going for you, chances are you can successfully keep a Maremma Sheepdog as a companion. Here at Prancing Pony Farm, we have the first two covered for you. We breed and train Maremmas that excel as both working dogs and pets. And we are able, willing and deeply honored as breeders and trainers to support our clients and their dogs for life. You won't be left to figure things out on your own, no matter what role your dog fills.

As for number three, that's up to you. Given your family's unique situation, you need to research the breeds carefully and then ask yourself if owning a Maremma as a pet is realistic. Every family or person is different, and each situation is unique. The answer will be no for some, and for some, it will be a resounding yes. Either way, you'll be making an informed and well-thought-out choice for yourself and your family, instead of taking the word of "experts" who don't know anything about what is best for you, or what you are capable of.

However, due to my own experience in this area, I can help you with number three by answering all the questions you have (and probably some you had yet to think of) about keeping a Maremma as a pet. Stay tuned for part 2 of this series, where we will explore the joys and challenges of keeping Maremmas as pets. But in the meantime feel free to reach out for more info about these amazing dogs. 

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I regularly get replies to my email newsletter and comments on my "Living and Working with Maremma Sheepdogs" Facebook group from people who have a Maremma Sheepdog (or another breed of LGD) that they acquired from someone else. (Not bred by me.) Sometimes, they have a question or two; other times, they struggle with their dog. The breeder or other source (rescue or shelter) they got the dog from is unwilling or unable to help them, so they don't know who to turn to. ​

I remember when I bought my first Maremma, Olaf. We had just bought our farm and needed a Livestock Guardian Dog to guard our goats and other animals from the local coyote population. I knew nothing about LGDs besides what I read in the few books I found on them and a few online websites and articles.

Olaf's breeder shared enough about the breed with me to convince me to buy a Maremma puppy from him instead of the Great Pyrenese I was considering. I always say it was a "happy accident" that Olaf's breeder was more persuasive than the GP breeder, and I mean it. But the breeder's advice only lasted long enough for me to trade my $600 for the fluffy 5-month-old puppy, and that was it.

As the breeder left, he said, "I know you have many questions about how to raise and train your puppy, and I will be there to help you." I don't know if that was a bald-faced lie or just a canned speech on his part, but it was not true. I did reach out to Olaf's breeder several times. He never even answered my emails. Except for when he had more puppies for sale and thought I might buy one. But when he realized he wouldn't make more money from me, he ghosted me again. ​

So, the problem with Facebook groups isn't universal. It really depends on the groups. But unfortunately, most of the LGD or Maremma groups are just plain awful. There are some kind and encouraging people who know what they are talking about in some of the groups. But there are way more bullies and keyboard warriors. And the "advice" given by most people on these groups is questionable at best and dangerous and harmful (to dogs and humans) at worst. 

Before you protest that I don't know what I'm talking about, let me assure you that I do because I was a member of most of these groups for a long time and still am a member of some. I used to post frequently on some of them, particularly the bigger Maremma and the working and training-focused LGD groups. I have been personally bullied, given what I know now was awful advice, and watched all kinds of drama unfold in these groups. I finally realized I was wasting my time and inviting stress into my life, so I stopped going on most of them. I don't miss them one bit.

In some groups, the admins just turn a blind eye to the drama and garbage their members are spewing. They're so silent you don't even know they are there. In other groups, the bullying and bad advice come from the admins and "group experts" as well as other members. In some groups, the admins and members seem to relish whipping LGDs and humans into submission. A few are genuinely vile and sick. I joined one of these groups just for a day at the request of a friend who was being bullied in the group and wanted my opinion. My opinion: these are some sick and disgusting humans.

Many people running these groups like to swagger around and brag about their "expertise," but identifying their credentials is Mission Impossible. I'm sorry, but "I've been training dogs since I was 5 years old" doesn't impress me. I want to see the dog training and behavior courses you've completed and what professional dog-related organizations you belong to. I want to know more about your LGD breeding program and how many litters of working LGDs you've bred, raised, and successfully trained to maturity. I want to see your website and read your blog. 

If those people have such credentials, they don't seem very proud of them because I've never been able to track down the info, even when I point-blank asked for it. At best, you might get an "I've owned Maremmas (or other LGDs) all my life. Considering the average LGD probably lives 10-15 years, that could mean that the average 50-60-year-old owned 5 or fewer dogs "all their life." With just one litter of 10 Maremma puppies, I have double your experience. ​

In the future, I may consider starting a paid membership with regular content, a forum, and Zoom calls between members where everyone can discuss their questions, but I need to be sure I have the time to commit to that and a need for it before I start a project that big!

I realize that some people really can't afford paid training services. That's why I advise people to factor that into the purchase price when buying their LGD. I include lifetime free training services to anyone who buys a Maremma from me, so even though my dogs are more expensive than a lot of Maremmas, when you add the degree of early training and socialization my pups get, along with the additional training services, my dogs are actually a bargain. ​

But I know there will always be people who will go for the "affordable" puppy or end up with a dog they need help with and nowhere to turn. They have a question or two and need a little bit of advice. I'm happy to help with these questions, so I usually answer them in the comments on my Facebook group or in a quick email reply, especially if the question comes from someone on my email list. ​

Here is the first question in the series, sent to me by Tracey:

"I have a 9-week-old Mareema pup, who is living with my goats full time; I've noticed the last few days she's jumping and nipping at 3 of my younger goats; how do I stop this kind of behavior? I'm not sure how to positively reinforce this. I tried moving her away and distracting her and it lasts for about 10 minutes but when she sees the goat again, she's nipping at it again."

And here's my answer to Tracey:

Hi Tracey, Thanks for contacting me for help with your pup and the videos. They are very helpful. You can positively reinforce behavior you want to see more of, but you can't really "positively reinforce" an unwanted behavior out of your dog. So you can positively reinforce the calm behavior you see with the goats by using clicker training, but for the unwanted behavior, your goal is to prevent it, not reinforce it. 

Some people would tell you to use negative reinforcement to stop the undesired behavior, even if it's just a verbal reprimand. I don't recommend any aversive training methods, especially with a 9-week-old puppy. And even a verbal "correction" isn't ideal. I have a t-shirt that says, "No is not a behavior." That's to remind myself, as much as anyone else, that we want to teach dogs what we want them to do. And "corrections," even verbal ones, don't do that.

So, how can you get your puppy to stop chasing the goats without using corrections or reprimands? Simple. Through management. Or through the "ABC Training Method," known as Antecedent Arrangement. The Antecedent (A) is what triggers the Behavior (B) and gets the Consequence (C). ​

For more on this method read this blog post:

In your puppy's case, the kids are the antecedents that trigger chasing behavior. The consequence you will get if you allow this to continue is a puppy that learns a fun game and bad habits of stock chasing. If that continues, a worse consequence could be injured goats. Your puppy seems to do well with the adult goats but wants to chase the kids. Solution - remove the kids. 

I don't know how old your kids are, but personally, I don't allow puppies of a certain age to be with young goats, anyway. Tiny puppies usually do fine with kids the size of yours, but once they learn they can chase and bite the goats, it's time to move the kids or the puppies. She's probably at the age where the kids are still safe because they can evade her, but since she's showing interest in biting them, I would suggest you split them up ASAP.

I know many people think they can get an LGD puppy, bring it home, and put it in with their entire herd of goats or sheep. That is the absolute worst thing you can do and a sure way to lead to trouble. When you bring home an LGD puppy, especially one that is young (9 weeks is too young for a responsible breeder to sell their pups), it's not their job to protect your livestock. It's their job to learn to be an LGD. It's your job to protect your stock and train your puppy so the puppy can take over the protection one day. 

I am pretty sure you understand that your puppy is just in training and not "guarding" yet, but I know a lot of people expect pups of her age to be guarding, so I'm putting that in here for their benefit! 

But since you have your puppy with all your goats, I will assume you didn't realize that wasn't the best plan. I have around 75 goats as well as 100+ kids a year. My puppies are never with young kids and rarely with yearlings. I may allow pups under 8 weeks old with 6 months or older kids, but usually, by the time the pups are around your pup's age, that changes. When the pups turn into little velociraptors, I remove any small or young goats.

I am also cautious, even with the adult goats I select to be with my puppies. I have a lot of different temperaments in my herd, from placid and calm goats to flighty and silly ones. I never allow a flighty goat to be with a puppy because it will encourage them to chase. (Chasing is a self-reinforcing behavior and addicting due to the dopamine rush they get.) I never allow any goats who like to bully and head-butt puppies (Nigerians, I'm looking at you!) because this can cause puppies to strike back in defense and turn into aggressive dogs. 

Instead, I select my calm, quiet, patient goats to be with my puppies and young, zoomie dogs. I have a few goats, in particular, who really love dogs and are excellent puppy trainers. Those goats have a permanent home in my puppy parlor pasture and a permanent home on my farm. Those goats are worth their weight in gold. ​

One more thing I would like to point out. Your puppy is also chasing the kids because she is bored. She's targeting the kids because they are closer to her size and more interesting than the adult goats. Livestock Guardian Dogs do better in pairs for many reasons, including needing an appropriate playmate. A goat, sheep, chicken, etc, is not a suitable playmate. Only another puppy is. Even an older LGD is no substitute for another puppy.

Puppies under about 6 months old are VERY energetic and playful. They bite and chase each other precisely in the way she's trying to play with the goats. Putting her in a pasture with nothing but goats and no other puppies, expecting her to not act like a typical puppy, and not giving her an outlet for her play is unrealistic and unfair. ​

Six months of hard work finally paid off the week of April 9-13, 2024, when I attended the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional program. I have officially completed this very rigorous professional dog training program! I learned so much throughout the six-month program and even more during the five-day workshop. 

My training partner for the KPA Professional program was Luna, our 6-year-old Boxer. On April 8th, Luna and I headed to Corona, California, for an incredible week of dog training and fun with the other students and their training partners. My husband, Steve, accompanied us since I am not a fan of driving in SoCal traffic! Steve hung out at the hotel each day while Luna and I trained and learned. Our youngest son, Noah, took great care of the animals while we were gone.

The workshop was held at BadDogs Training Center in Corona, CA. Every day, Steve dropped Luna and me off before 9 AM and picked us up between 4 & 5 PM. The days were long but very productive and a lot of fun!

Luna has lived her entire life on our small farm and rarely leaves here, so she was overwhelmed by all the sights and sounds of Southern California. The whole experience was much more stressful for Luna than I expected. If I had known how much of a struggle it was going to be, I probably would not have enrolled at all or perhaps had chosen a different dog. But hindsight is 20/20, as they say, so there's no use worrying about "what ifs."

Ironically, KPA came out with a virtual program a few months after Luna and I started our program. That would have been ideal for Luna and me, and we wouldn't have had to leave our farm. Although, after attending the in-person workshop, I learned so much that I would have missed in a virtual program, so I'm glad I went, even if it wasn't perfect.

Safety, comfort, and respect for the dogs are paramount, so each dog has its own space far from the other dogs, trainers, and anything that might be scary to them. 

I brought Luna's crate, but she preferred hanging out on her mat with a tether—and with plenty of toys! Tethers are an excellent dog training and management tool, and I will explore using them in my Maremma breeding and training program.

Each day, we had "show and tell," where each training team showed off some skills they had worked on at home. Luna was very stressed and shy during the workshop, so she didn't always want to cooperate, but when she did, she was adorable, as usual. Here, she is targeting a plastic box with her paw. Targeting is a handy skill that can be used in a variety of ways, and dogs usually really enjoy it! 

The workshop days were very long, and Luna was very tired at the end of every day! So was I, so we usually just got take-out on the way home and relaxed for the night.

Luna was timid and nervous, but she still said hello to some other students. 

We spent time relaxing at the hotel each night. We stayed at a very comfortable and pleasant Corona hotel (Staybridge Suites).

There were three other students in the workshop. Two brought their dogs, Teddy and AU, two Malinois mixes. Unfortunately, the dog belonging to the other student became seriously ill right before the workshop, and he couldn't attend. She was able to borrow two different dogs (both Labs) from someone who lived in the area.

Seeing the difference in how all these dogs act was eye-opening. I expected them to be different than my Maremmas, but I didn't realize how different they would be from Luna and my other companion dogs. It gives you quite an appreciation for how unique and incredible all dogs are.

It was also exciting to watch other trainers at work. We all have our own unique training styles. I have only ever watched one professional trainer in person, and those were rare occurrences. So, observing other trainers for a week was a real treat.

On one of the class days, we met and worked with Fidget, a clicker-trained pig! Fidget is owned by a KPA DTP graduate and CTP. He is a very smart and entertaining pig who knows a lot of great behaviors. If a pig can be clicker-trained, then certainly a dog can—or a goat!

During some of the exercises, we switched dogs with the other students and got experience working with dogs other than our own. This is AU, a herding dog who is very different from not only my Maremmas but also my other three dogs. She is such a pretty and sweet girl!

Luna just chillin' during class time.

One day, we had a pretend "Puppy Training Class" with a local rescue group. Four puppies were brought in by volunteers, and we had mock lessons. I was very nervous at first, but it turned out to be a lot of fun.

One of the exercises was teaching our fellow students a new skill. This was to practice our teaching skills, but it also required work from the learners. It was also a lot of fun. I learned to knit (sort of), tie a bow tie, and make an emergency dog harness. And what skill did it teach my fellow students? How to milk a goat, of course! Using rubber gloves as the "udder." 😆🐐🐐

Some days, Luna couldn't even make it back to the hotel for her nap. In her defense, she was on Trazadone most days for her anxiety, and it made her very sleepy.

Our instructor, Terrie Hayward, wanted to say hi to Luna, but Luna was so shy and nervous, and Terrie, of course, respected Luna's boundaries. Finally, on day 4, Luna got a little friendly with Terrie, even posing for a selfie. 💜🦮

On day 5, we had our final teaching and training assessments. We must pass these assessments to become Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partners.

For the teaching assessment, each student had to run a pretend lesson (chosen the night before) and teach two other students. The students traded dogs for the lessons to make everything more challenging and more like a real lesson. The "teachers" had to meet a long list of requirements to pass. I was so nervous I didn't think I would pass. But I got 100%!! 😅 

I was really happy with the comments my instructor made on page two of my assessment form. (I have included those comments here.) I know that I am good at interacting with my Maremma and goat clients, because I love my dogs and goats and love sharing them with people who love them like I do. But a pretend classroom is a much different setting than my farm and I really was quite nervous. I'm glad that the real me shone through even my nerves!

For the training assessment, our dogs had to perform the 10-part chain that we had taught them at home, as well as a 4-part segment and a reordered segment. All of this had to be done within 15 minutes, and there was a very long list of criteria we had to meet to pass.

Unfortunately, Luna had a rough day on Friday and ultimately refused to perform her chain. She only got about halfway through the chain one time, and then she walked away, refusing to participate again. 

​Luna was highly stressed and nervous during the entire workshop. She is just not used to being out in strange places or away from our other dogs. I had her on Trazadone for the first four days of the workshop. It helped a little bit with her anxiety, but it made her so sleepy that she could hardly participate in the training.


I decided not to give her any Trazadone on Friday, hoping she would be more alert and willing to train. Unfortunately, that was a bad call, as she was too alert and very nervous, getting distracted by every noise and sight. 


The training center was in an industrial area with "trains, planes, and automobiles" (and big trucks) constantly going by. Luna was too stressed and distracted to perform her chain, so I failed this portion of my final assessment.

Not completing the chain was a disappointing experience. For six months, I put in hours of study and training. I put so much of my life and business on hold, even skipping kidding season to devote time to the program. I completed the rigorous course but still need to finish the chain. 

But I did this program to help dogs by learning to train in the most positive and kind way possible. Therefore, Luna's needs were unquestionably more important than my own. "Empathy Over Ego" should be the motto of everyone who trains any animal. 

I had taken Luna out to public places to prepare for the workshop, and she was always very stressed, so I knew she might not be able to finish her chain. I had hoped that she would relax as she got used to things at the training center. And she did relax a tiny bit, but not enough to complete her chain. 

So, during our 15 minutes, I did my best to engage her, remaining calm and patient until the timer went off. And then I excused myself to have a good cry.

The bad news is that Luna and I still need to retake our 10-part chain assessment. We must wait three months and pay an additional $270 fee to retake the examination. The good news is that we will do the make-up exam at home via Zoom. So, there will be no reason for Luna to be nervous. (I'll be anxious, but I have time to prepare.😆) ​

​Luna and I headed home the day after the workshop ended, knowing our journey wasn't quite over, but it was close. It was good to be going home after a busy week away.

So, while I am disappointed that my journey with the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional program isn't finished, I am glad that I made it this far. Enrolling in this program was a huge deal for me. 

Committing to the program in the first place was a huge decision. The tuition was $5600, and then there were the travel expenses to the workshop, as well as all the treats and supplies for training Luna. This was not a small investment, especially considering I wouldn't bring in any income from kid sales for at least a year.

To be honest, I wasn't even confident that I would finish the program when I signed up. I have taken many dog training courses, but I have never committed to something so intense. With a family, a farm full of animals, and a business to run, I didn't know if I could put in the time it would take to complete the program. (Funny side note: I discovered I have ADHD while enrolled in this program because it was such a struggle to stay focused. I might never have found that out if it weren't for DTP!)

But I am committed to being the best Maremma Sheepdog breeder and trainer I can possibly be, and to giving my puppy clients the higest level of training support possible. I know how challenging it can be to raise and train a Livestock Guardian Dog to maturity. The average new LGD owner is not equippped to train their new dog by themselves, and trustworthy, reliable training support is almost nonexistent. I knew that investing in myself through investing in the Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Professional program would pay off big time for me, my dogs, and my clients. I knew that I would still learn a lot even if I didn't finish the program. I had to give it at least a shot. 

So here I am, not quite at the end of my journey, but almost there. Luna and I are practicing our chain in preparation for retaking the assessment. Meanwhile, I have been busy. I put off so many things in my business and on my farm while focusing on DTP, so I have been busy catching up, with puppies to train, goats to wrangle and lots of barn chores and office work to do! Steve and I spent two weeks on the East Coast visiting family and meeting two new baby grandsons.  

I have also been busy furthering my professional education. I finished two marketing programs (5X Your Farm Sales and Business Made Simple) and the UnChase! Rural Dog training course. I completed Kim Brophy's L.E.G.S. Applied Ethology course and became a certified Family Dog Mediator. (That is a fantastic course so I will write more about that later.) I am currently working on Suzanne Clothier's Enriched Puppy Protocol course and have several other dog training and breeding courses and some marketing courses in the queue. Learning never ends, especially if you have the goal of being the best Maremma Sheepdog breeder and trainer there is. And I do! 

​Five minutes ago, I finished the coursework for the program! Crazy! Now, I am far from done. I still have to take the 100-question final assessment, but I will give myself some time to study for that. 😆 But at least I know that all the coursework is done, and I can focus on reviewing what I've learned and prepping for the workshop and final assessments in April.

One of the most essential things a breeder can do to prevent producing puppies with debilitating health problems is to perform health testing on their breeding dogs. To be clear, some conditions, such as hip dysplasia, have environmental causes, and genetic and health testing alone won't prevent all problems. But that's no excuse for breeders to pretend these problems don't exist and ignore their vital role in protecting the puppies they produce and their future owners. 

I plan to write more about this topic soon, but most Maremma breeders have largely ignored health testing. The MSCA Code of Ethics only requires hip testing, while elbows and DNA are not addressed at all. (Most Maremma breeders do no health testing at all, or not enough.) The MSCA used to require proof of hip testing for a breeder to advertise puppies, but that requirement was removed due to pressure from breeders who feel health testing is "too expensive" and an "unfair burden" to them. (What about the burden to the unsuspecting people who buy sick or crippled puppies from these breeders?) Let the buyer beware - not all breeders advertising on the club website sell sound puppies from properly health-tested parents!

In my breeding program, I have always PennHip tested my breeding dogs. I added DNA testing a couple of years ago. I tried to add OFA hips and Elbows over two years ago, but due to a big mix-up between my vet and OFA, I had yet to receive the results on the three dogs I had tested. But after years of waiting patiently, not only was my vet finally able to straighten that issue out and get me the results on those dogs, but she also became certified to do PennHip exams on dogs!

I've wished for, dreamed of, and prayed for this for years! Now, my trusted vet can not only help me select the best breeding candidates for my program, but I can also PennHip test my puppies in future litters, which will give me even more valuable information about the overall health of my dogs. 

A complete OFA/PennHip panel is roughly $800-900 per dog. DNA testing is around another $200. I'm not made of money, so it won't happen overnight, but bit by bit, I am rounding out my dogs' health testing. I've PennHip/OFA tested four young breeding candidates in January. I will be testing more soon. I also have DNA test kits on hand to test more dogs. 

My goal is for all of my breeding dogs to have PennHip, final OFA hips and elbows, and DNA testing completed soon, which will be my standard for future breeding candidates. This way, I can make the best breeding decisions possible and maximize my chances of producing sound puppies who can do the job they were bred to do. ​

Today was an exciting day for Prancing Pony Farm and my Maremma Sheepdog breeding program. Right before Christmas, my wonderful veterinarian, Kayla McCrone, of Valley Veterinary Services, became certified to do PennHip exams on dogs. She has been doing OFA exams for a while, but because PennHip is superior for screening for hip dysplasia, I have urged her to add that to her offerings for YEARS. But I patiently waited since I knew she had a lot on her plate in building a new business. ​

I sometimes get contacted by people needing help with their "aggressive" Livestock Guardian Dog. First I want to say that I do not like labeling any dog as "aggressive", even if they are behaving in what may appear to be an aggressive, fearful or reactive manner. Labelling a dog as "aggressive" gives the connotation that there is something wrong with the dog itself, and that it can't be fixed and this is simply not true in most cases. Aggression in dogs is a very complex issue in dogs with a LOT of causes but there are a lot of things that can be done to help.

If the dog is chasing or harrassing livestock that is definitely a problem but it's usually caused by improper managent. Most Livestock Guardian Dogs don't start out chasing stock out of aggression. They do it out of boredom, because they are not with the appropriate stock for their age and developmental stage, or because they haven't been properly socialized or supervised with stock to begin with. (Either by the breeder, the owner or both.)

​If the owner interupts the behavior by not allowing the dog to be unsupervised with the stock and using positive training methods (and letting the dog mature a bit if needed) the problem can usually be solved. But if the dog is allowed to continue chasing stock then what started out as a fun game can turn into outright aggression and can ruin your LGD. Chasing livestock is a self-rewarding behavior. The dog gets a dopamine hit every time they engage in it. You don't want to let that become a pattern.

Resource guarding is another very common cause of aggression in Livestock Guardian Dogs, especially directed towards livestock or other dogs. (I've never personally had a dog show resource guarding behavior towards me but it can happen.) I am going to address this separately below but just understand that you must not allow your livestock to steal your dog's food - ever! This can lead to resource guarding, which can turn into full blown aggression towards stock. All dogs deserve a chance to eat in peace without greedy goats or chickens stealing their food!

Dog on dog aggression is very scary and if not managed can escalate into a very dangerous situation. Not all Livestock Guardian Dogs get along with each other or with other dogs of different breeds and types. Some may just have the occassional spat, or only fight at certain times and under certain situations (heat cycles or resource guarding) but others will have terrible fights which can result in terrible injuries, expensive vet bills and even death. If you know your LGDs are not getting along with each other or with another family dog do not let them continue to stay together. Seek help from your breeder (if qualified to give dog training advice) or an experienced trainer who uses only scientific, positive reinforcement training methods.

And whatever you do, if your dog gets into a fight with another dog, be it your own dog or someone else's dog, do not try to break up the fight! If you get in the middle of two dogs who are trying to rip each other to shreds it's likely you that will get hurt. When dogs are fighting they are in "fight or flight" mode. Their cortisol levels rise, making them incapable of rational thought. They are physically incapable of stopping to think "Oh, I should be careful not to bite mom," while they are fighting for their lives, at least in their minds! I learned this lesson the hard way many years ago when I tried to break up a fight between two of my cocker spaniels. I ended up getting a nasty bite and I have never forgotten that lesson. Now when any of my Maremmas get in a fight I get out of the way fast. It's no fun seeing your dogs lighting into each other but if I get hurt there will be no one to take care of my dogs so I try my best to prevent fights so I don't have to worry about that. But if there is a fight I don't intervene unless I think I can do so safely, and that's usually only if I have help.

Aggression directed towards humans is the scariest of all, especially if it involves children. And if it's your own dog acting aggressively towards you or a family member it can feel really scary and personal. If you or one of your family members have been bitten by your own dog it can leave you feeling shaken and betrayed. If a visitor or guest has been bitten you may feel embarrassed or worried about legal action.

These are valid feelings and I am not going to tell you that you shouldn't feel them. But often times the aggressive behavior is caused by the humans unintentionally putting the dog into an inappropriate or stressful situation and then not picking up on the warning signals the dog is giving that something is wrong. 

Most dogs don't actually want to bite humans or even fight with each other. Dogs don't just "snap" one day and attack out of the blue. They give off very clear signals that show their stress and discomfort. These include their body posture, avoidance behaviors and displacement behaviors. If the signals are ignored and the stress continues eventually the dog may carry things to the next level - with their teeth! These signals are easy to recignize once you have studied them a little bit. The absolute best resource for understanding canine body language is On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals. This book is short enough to read in a couple of hours but is excellent! Should be required reading for all dog owners.

I will list other resources that I know of further below on the page but the number one place I suggest you go to if you're dealing with aggressive behavior in your dog is Mike Shikashio's free Understanding Aggression in Dogs webinar.

Same Gender Aggression

This is often an issue among intact dogs but altered dogs are not immune to this issue. Male/female pairs tend to work best in Livestock Guardian Dogs but aren't without problems, mainly preventing accidental matings. In order to prevent an accidental pregnancy you will need to alter at least one of the pair earlier than you normally might want to but it's worth it if you can't ensure the dogs won't breed by accident. Occasionally male/female pairs will fight but usually it's a case of resource guarding (see below) and can be managed.

Owning two males is the next best combination in most cases, unless they are intact and competing for nearby intact females. If you have intact female dogs of any age and breed nearby your males will probably foght. If you don't they will probably get along fine. Since I always have females in heat around I never keep my intact males together.

A pair consisting of two females is what I call the "most likely to go wrong." Some females are very bonded and do really well together all the time. Some fight only when they are in heat and can be managed by separating (or spaying) them. But some will attempt to kill each other every chance they get. for this reason I don't ever suggest a new LGD owner start with two females. The reason is that two females can start off getting along great and then when puberty hits that can change and they can become enemies for life. ​

Resource Guarding

This can be directed towards other dogs, livestock or humans. (I've never seen the last one in my Maremmas but it can happen.) Resource guarding is a normal dog behavior, especially in LGDs. The reason LGDs guard livestock is because they resource guard the property and "their" livestock (or their humans or whatever). Resource guarding is not "bad" behavior, but carried too far it can become a problem. Dogs can resource guard food, other animals, people, territory and all kinds of things. Most of the time if you are experiencing male/female fights it's because of resource guarding and fixing the resource guarding will stop the fighting.

Resource guarding comes from a place of fear and insecurity and should never be punished. The dog is worried that someone or something will take something they value. The coyote might take their goats, the goats might take their food, so they resource guard to protect their goats, which we like. But they may also resource guard to protect their food from the goats. We don't like that, though, personally, I don't like my goats eating dog food any more than the dogs do. It's expensive and it's very unhealthy for ruminants to eat meat based food.

To fix resource guarding the dog needs to feel SAFE. Don't ever let livestock steal dog food! Feed dogs away from stock and away from each other, if necessary. I used to actually encourage my dogs to resource guard their food from the goats before I understood how dangerous that was, and how unfair it is to the dogs. And how impossible it is to deter naughty goats from getting into the dog food! Now I put my dogs into dog kennels, barn stalls or fenced off areas to eat each night and let them back with the goats when they are done. This means feeding the dogs takes forever but it's worth it to know I'm not causing problems or wasting dog food!

I have a lot of dogs so if I have a dog that resource guards against other dogs I pair them with a dog that doesn't resource guard, then I spread their feeders far enough apart that they can all eat in peace. Don't feed dogs that resource guard with other dogs in confined spaces! If needed you can simply separate the dogs to eat, putting each in their own space and putting them back together (and with the stock) when they are done.

Some dogs can't even handle being watched by other animals (and maybe humans) while they eat. They need a visual barrier as well as a physical one before they will feel safe enough to eat. Otherwise they growl and lunge at any animal that even looks their way, often getting so worked up they don't even eat. Use a tarp or screen on the fence, put them in a barn or whatever it takes for them to feel safe. Take this resource guarding very seriously because it can lead to outright agression if not properly managed. 

Below is a link to an outstanding free webinar on resource guarding in dogs by Mike Shikashio, the expert on agression is dogs of all breeds.​ I highly recommend any and all Mike's courses, webinars, videos and blog posts, as well as his podcast. 

Adolescence

Oh boy is this a big one! Dogs go through a lot of changes during adolescence. They are puppies in adult looking bodies with lots of energy, raging hormones and big, complex emotions. The biggest thing you can do to manage this stage (and all stages but especially this one) is to learn about positive reinforcement training (clicker training) and use what you learn to shape your dog's behavior into what you want to see more of. It's a lot easier (and more fun) to teach a dog what you want it to do than what you don't want it to do. At the same time you are engaging their minds and bodies and building a strong bond with them. In a battle of the wills with a teenaged Maremma you will not win. But armed with only a clicker and some treats you can probably get a lot more cooperation from them and have a lot of fun doing it. 

"Coming into their own" as LGDs. 

I don't know how else to describe it but there are often struggles between dogs as they mature, even dogs that formerly got along well. This is part of the adolescent stage. Even opposite gender pairs sometimes go through this. Observation and careful managment can prevent a temporary problem from escalating into serious injuries or turning into a lifelong problem between two dogs. ​

Punishment or Aversive Training Methods

This is a very common cause of aggression in dogs that is entirely preventable. A new Livestock Guardian Dog owner has a problem with their dog chasing chickens or sheep and instead of using positive reinforcement training methods they may yell at the dog or even hit him. Often they go for the quick fix methods, with shock collars being the most common and dangerous ones used. They may decide to try this on their own or they may get the idea from one of those Facebook groups I warned you about. Or they may even get the advice from their breeder, in which case they bought from the wrong breeder to start with so that's part of the problem, but I digress...

The problem with these methods are many. They are scientifically proven to not be as effective as positive reinforcement. They usually make the behavior worse, not better. They don't relieve the stress and anxiety that caused the behavior in the first place. They do nothing to teach the dog what you want them to do, which is the real goal. They can suppress behavior without really changing it and can cause the dog to hide the warning signs you otherwise might see. (Dogs that truly do "just suddenly explode" were more likely to have been punished or trained aversively.) And it destroys the trust and bond between the dog and their human. And your dog is sure more likely to bite you if they don't trust you!

You shouldn't use punishment or aversive or "balanced" training methods with any dog but using them with a livestock guardian dog is especially dangerous. These dogs are more sensitive than other dogs, more independent natured and not used to "taking orders" from humans, and they are bred to fight and even kill some very scary predators. Getting into a battle of the wills with a Livestock Guardian Dog or causing it pain in the name of training is a very bad idea. 

There is another reason why shock collars and even sometimes electric fences can be especially dangerous with LGDs. When your dog receives a shock from a "invisible" source they do not understand what is causing that pain. They only know it hurts. If another dog, one of the animals they are guarding or even a human is standing nearby when they recieve the shock they may come to believe that the other animal or the human caused the pain. And if this happens a lot they can really make that association. Whether the shock is given intentionally, such as a human shocking the dog when it chases stock, or if it's a invisible fence or electric fence and the dog shoocks itself by getting too close, the effect is the same. They could decide that whatever is in the vicinity is their attacker and this could actually cause agression that wasn't there before.

I know this is true because I have experienced it with one of my own dogs. Before I understood about the dangers of aversive training and the importance of positive reinforcement I had a young dog that developed a habit of chasing horses. We also had a litter of kittens around this time (the only litter we ever had) and the dog started chasing them. (She was ok with my adult cats but the hissing, spitting kittens freaked her out.) I tried using the shock collar to "train" my dog not to chase horses and cats. What I ended up with is a dog that loses her mind at even the sight of a horse in the pasture near her, and that kills kittens. She killed a kitten from that litter and she later attacked two abandoned  kittens I took in and bottle raised. They were three months old and the sweetest kittens. All they did was cross her path and she attacked. One of the kittens was hurt so badly it had to be put to sleep. I gave the other one away and will never have another kitten on the property. I could not even be upset with my dog because I know it was my fault. I created a kitten killer by using a shock collar to try to "train" her. Never again! ​

Deterring Fence Climbers with the Least Aversives Possible

Sometimes owners have problems with their dog climbing fences so they use an invisible fence. I agree 100% that fence climbing should be stopped since dogs can easily get hurt or killed. Being hit by a car is an aversive as it gets. I have had a few clients that used invisible fences without problems. But I know of people who have had bad results with them so I don't recommend them.

A better way to deter a fence climber is with a hot wire at the top of the fence. Actually I use electric poly rope since it's easy to work with and highly visible to animals and humans. I use a solar charger and fencing materials from Premier 1 Supply. They have the best fencing materials anywhere. The chain link insulators work well to attach the rope to horse no-climb fencing. I am not very good at building and fixing things but I was able to run a hotwire around a pasture that's roughly 200' x 70' in a couple of hours. If I can do it anyone can! 

If your fence is high enough to keep livestock in then it's high enough that small children can't reach the wire. The hot wire serves as a visible deterrent to the fence climbing dog, rather than an invisible one. The dog can see the thing that's shocking them and they usually make the right association on what to avoid - the hotwire, and not another animal or human. You also don't have to worry about keeping the battery charged on a shock collar and the hotwire works better on fluffy LGDs since they usually touch it with their muzzle, as opposed to the collar going around their neck, where the hair is thick.

The wire is usually high enough that the dog can't accidentally touch it once they know it's there. And most dogs only need to touch it once before they will learn to avoid it, which stops the fence jumping in its tracks without causing a lot of pain to the dog. Most of the time you won't even need to turn the power on once the dog has learned to avoid the wire.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior is a resource you should check out to learn more about why aversive training methods are not recommended for any animals.

How to Train Without Aversives

If you're already dealing with aggression in your dog you need to be sure to drop any and all aversive training tools and methods immediately. If you haven't used any aversives that's great. Don't start! And don't listen to anyone that suggests you do do. "Dominance Theory" was proven to be based on faulty science years ago but celebrity dog trainers and wannabe YouTubers are still profiting off of this garbage. 

Instead you want to focus on science-based, positive reinforcement methods that will help you build trust and a partnership with your dog. Here are a few places to start:

Karen Pryor Academy Dog Trainer Foundations online course.
​

A Dog Going to a New Home or Being Rehomed

This kind of transition can be hard on dogs, especially if they are older juveniles or adults. Change is a lot harder on older dogs than on puppies. They all react in some way to the stress of having their entire world turned upside down. How that stress manifests itself depends on the individual dog's temperament and a LOT of factors. The longer I work with Maremmas the more important I realize this issue is and the more committed I am to helping my dogs and their new owners make as smooth a transition as possible. 

The first way to help a dog make a smooth transition to it's new home is to match each puppy or dog to the right home for them. That's why I don't allow my clients to choose their puppy, unless I feel that the one they want is the right choice for them. (Sometimes if I have a couple of pups that are similar in temperament I'll let them choose.) I take the information the client gives me on the puppy application and through discussions we have and choose the right puppy  or dog for them. 

Another big way to help your dog thrive in your home is to buy two pups. I feel very strongly that LGDs do best in pairs, and for good reasons that I have written about before. I will respect a client's wishes if they insist they can only have one dog, but just realize you may have problems because of it. Aggression is not likely to be an issue but a pup may be nervous and fearful in their new home, especially if they are older. If they are going with a littermate or another dog they know and are bonded to they usually adjust much better.

Not Understanding the Breed or Choosing it for the Wrong Reason 

This one is so big that it needs a post of its own. I don't have time for that now but it's safe to say that most people who have problems with their LGDs probably either didn't fully understand the breed or type of dog they were getting, don't have a suitable home or situation for the dog, don't understand how to train and manage their dog (see all of the above) or really shouldn't own an LGD. They may have bought from an unscrupulous or ignorant backyard breeder who either offers no advice or the wrong advice.

​Or they may have bought their puppy from an excellent breeder who is willing and able to advise them, but they don't ask for help. Asking for help after things have escalated to extremes is better than not asking but as a breeder I would rather my clients ask me for help the first time they have an issue, however small, than wait until someone has gotten hurt. An ethical breeder will welcome your questions so don't be afraid to ask for help. 

And if you are still just thinking about buying a Livestock Guardian Dog make sure you do thorough research on the breed as well as any breeder you are considering buying a puppy from. You're not just buying a puppy. You're buying a partnership with your breeder for the life of your dog. Or you should be, so choose wisely!

Hopefully you've found this info helpful. It's not an exhaustive list, by any means but these resources should get you started. I will add to this post as I find new resources.

Remember, if you are dealing with aggression in your Livestock Guardian Dog you do not have to go through it alone. If you bought your dog from us you already have lifetime training support. All you have to do is call, text or email me for help!

If you acquired your LGD from someone else we can still help. Just fill out the contact info below and we will be happy to advise you.

But finally we got the new shipping arrangements made and it was time to take Serena to the airport to fly to her new home on the East Coast.

​I've said goodbye to a lot of dogs. Seeing them go is a little sad, but I'm always happy for the dogs and their new owners. ​​Never once have I cried until I had to say goodbye to Serena. Maybe it's because I owned her for so long. Maybe it's because I had hopes and dreams for her that didn't happen. (She would have had lovely puppies.) Maybe it's simply because she's such a sweet girl. But I was really surprised to find myself tearing up. And walking away from her at the airport was so hard.